reviews Archives

April 17, 2008

Swank to the max

Max-blog.jpg The owner's name is Wellington, so you know steakhouse Max Stein's has to be good. Opening in the former Hartwell House in Lexington a few months ago, this plush wine bar is a great place to get your power lunch on. Start w/ some grilled apple brie, shrimp scampi or a new york sirloin, all under $20 and you won't break the bank. At night, the lobster thermidor — a 3 lber, stuffed w/ scallops and doused in brandy cream sauce — should settle your hash. Sounds rich, decadent and outrageously old-school. This supper club w/ a seedy twist is on my list for a great Thursday night nosh. www.maxsteins.com.

February 1, 2008

Taleh on fire

Volcano_Blue-Taleh.jpg The buzz coming out of the Blue Taleh last night was intoxicating. Or was that the mai thai bartender Matt threw my way? The curved bar at the newest dining spot was rocking w/ the likes of downtown big wigs, denizens, Auditorium staff, a Dracut superintendent and a spirited crew from chlelms. Besides the great drinks, sushi chef Preecha Suksomboon, aka Mike, stole the show when he torched a plate and va-va voom the Volcano, my new fav. dish, was ready! This towering sushi sampler lit aflame imparted smoky, shrimpy delightfulness. Props to owner Steve Ramirez for insisting this celeb. dish get top billing. We started w/ gold bags (sounding vaguely obscene) i had to try them. These crisp, hot dumpling/eggroll hybrid stuffed w/ chix/shrimp/corn and h20 chest. was a great way to start. Im told the dumpling soup imparts a lemongrass kick that will knock you into a warm splendor. The sushi was clean and powerful and the pad thai, too filling to finish. On the way out one diner carped "i had better sushi last week in Naples. I give it a five."
She must not be livin' in DTL. I give this place a 10. It hits on all the right points. It may never be Michelin-rated, it doesn't have to be, The BT is a boon to struggling Kearney Sq.
What's really exciting is the space and the vibe. The lighting is low/but not too low. I couldn't help but get a NYC hit. On a Thurs. night all the action was at the bar — offset w/ high bistro tables and a nicely appointed flat screen — a good place to catch the game. The lover's nook in the big bay window seems to be the power seat. Dress well if you plan on snagging this fish tank. Opening party includes live jazz tonight and a sushi bowl on sunday. 15 Kearney Sq.

January 11, 2008

Summer Winter wonderland

summer.jpg Enough banter on truck lunches. I had one of the better meals of my life last night at Summer Winter. The new rest. in the Burlington Marriott is so perfect, so divine there really is no need to schlepp into Boston for greater culinary artistry. The warm, low-lit venue by Mark & Clark, the team that put Ogunquit on the dining map w/Arrows, serves a simple menu that reflects the seasons and changing tides. We ordered cockle clams to start and the attentive (and I might add cute) bartender told us they'd been 86'd. Reason: They are Florida-caught and w/ the screwy weather down south they arrived small and sub-par. “So we sent them back,” he said. Nuff said.
We went w/ Clark’s crab cakes w/ remoulade and cole slaw ... Wow ... Nirvana is not just a plaid-wearing band from the ’90s people. These sublime morsels were all fish with a light dusting of crumbs, browned to Gordon Ramsay-perfection. The chef, whom we met later, is no Ramsay. He was so pleased that we liked our array of apps., he made us feel like the stars.
The clams that did arrive where steaming hot in a bucket of flavorful broth. “Forget spoons, they should serve this with a straw,” gourmet gay said. Presentation in this seasonal-spot is another delight. The starters from the bar menu arrive in a wooden box, making sharing neat and fun. Just slide the box down to your companion and slide it back. I’d lose my food blogging license if I didn’t mention the pita chips. Tasted like gourmet fried dough, if you can imagine that. Delight is not just a one-hit hip-hop wonder, fellow foodies. Has anyone visited Summer Winter? You’ll walk out as pleased as the Viva Viagra couple, I swear. Price points: Not bad at all. A kobe beef burger was $19. I've seen this rarified yup eat for $30 in beantown bistros. Did I mention the cold Ipswitch ale on tap? Really, there is no payola going on here, the temp. was optimal.
summerwinterrestaurant.com