Restaurant News Archives

May 7, 2008

The moon bar

cocktails.jp Someone mentioned the incredible cocktail menu at Moonstones yesterday and I happen to be holding the six-pager right now. Looks like Moonstones is bringing sipping back. Beginning w/ single malts, brandy and cognac, dessert drinks made w/ Starbucks Coffee (stop the presses) Godiva and Baileys — hot in winer, cool in summer — harkens back to the days when drinking was an art, not a game. Too bad this place is right off 495. Im sticking to a one and a half drink min. Carafes of sangrias, light wines, big wines, bad wines and the power list (that's just the reds) should slake any vino snob around. Im getting thirsty. You want beer? Hoegarden from Belgium, Sapporo, James Boag from Tasmania and (yeah!) Brooklyn
Larger keeps it real. Are the Cliff Notes version of this libation bible out there? Points for fresh takes w/ ginger caipirnha and acai margarita. And who won't be tempted by the kumquat royale? This lounge-forward hotspot on 110 in Chelms. is set to open May 20. See ya on the moon!. www.moonstones110.com.

April 23, 2008

Moonstones rising

Ever notice that most restaurants off major highways are all chains? How many times can you chicken mcnug it in the course of a week? Whisked off 495 in Chelmsford, Moonstones is the culinary respite we’ve been pulling for. Set to open in mid-May, the Cobblestones off-shoot could be one of those restaurants. A destination. A cut-above. A reason to break your weekly funk and go out for food + ambiance + drink. Here’s what we know so far: A “great big rib eye steak” and “delicious burgers” are on the menu. A raw bar, featuring house oysters the Moonstone from little Rhody are menu mainstays. Frustratingly that’s all owner Scott Plath would let slip. His confidence was refreshing tho. So sure is he that his world cuisine restaurant (in the former Ground Round locale) will blow everyone’s doors off, he doesn’t need food bloggers to help him manufacture buzz. I'm not sore. On the contrary, I respect that. He’s concentrating on the right things — amassing an educated group of culinary professionals, aka waitstaff. “We can have the best menu and great drinks, but if the staff can’t pull it off”... He’s got nothing. So true. He did promise Gourmet Gal a sneek peek in a week. So come back for photos and vid. when we go inside Moonstones.

April 17, 2008

Back to the basics at Left Bank

Remember Silks? The "special occasion" restaurant at the Stonehedge Inn in Tyngsboro that was usurped by the younger, hipper Left Bank eight months ago? Seems all is not magnifique w/ the makeover. "People (that would be you and perhaps me) are not happy w/ us," said suave owner Levent Bozkurt yesterday. Seems most of you are not down w/the menu the new chefs have rolled out. No, no. You New Englanders like classics. So as a result LB, like Starbucks, is going back to its roots and reclaiming Silks menu next month. Welcomed back into the fold are crab cakes, panko-crusted calamari and other upscale comfort food. Also the "chef's adventure," where the man in white can have a little fun, returns too. "We listen to our customers and they are telling us this is what they want," said Boz. Wish all restaurateurs thought like this. Anyone like the new menu? I for one like the feel of LB better. Alas I haven't eatten there. But the Bozkurts would like to hit home one thing: Don't think special occasion. Think great food and endless wine.

April 7, 2008

It pays to go early

Italian.jpg The economic slump has hit your local bistro hard, but frugal foodies are using these dark times to their advantage. How? By partaking in specials like Vincenzo’s Before Sunset. The tucked-away neighborhood joint on the Chelms/Carlisle line is offering three-course meals for $14.95 — soup, entree and dessert. It runs Sun-Thurs, but you must get to the Italian hideaway from 5 to 7 p.m. I'm not a senior citizen, but I think I could make an exception and get here early to enjoy classic Italian dishes like eggplant parm, gnocchi, haddock and cacciatore at half price. Make sure you sit in the red room, a romantic space perfect for a tryst or early bird canoodle. Hey, if you can’t fathom eating this early, go anyway and bag a left-over. At these prices you can’t afford not to go. www.vincenzosrestaurant.com. Anyone know of any other downturn deals around town?

March 30, 2008

Do we need another pizza place downtown?

pizza1.jpg Just went into Sammy's PIzza, 127 Merrimack to welcome this new za parlor to town (someone's got to do it). Can't remember what was here before (jimmy's pizza? gary's ice cream?),

Continue reading "Do we need another pizza place downtown?" »

March 27, 2008

Lowell's smoking

In 10 weeks, the Village Smokehouse will open on Middle Street. Owner Alan Kaplan says his Texas BBQ will be "the coolest place in town." He's keeping many things under wraps, ("wait till it's open") so I don't have much to spill beyond the time frame. Before summer he promised. The ever-popular open kitchen concept will prevail. Should wake up Middle Street and give a kick down to Paradiso and the struggling Fortunatos on Palmer St. Kaplan's survived in Brookline Village for 20 years with cold beer and spicy ribs. This is only his second restaurant and he chose Lowell because of its potential. He had the foresight to buy one hell of a bldg. two years ago. Infact it's two bldgs. The Plastow and Institute are historic Industrial timepieces. No word on the top three floors. The VS will be rustic-casual and should round out the burgeoning rest scene in DTL. This is the big one we've been waiting for. Once VS opens it's time to bring on the shops. What are those?

March 26, 2008

Hot Diggity!

doglogo.png The Starbucks of hot dogs opens on Merrimack Street on Tuesday and not a moment too soon. The twin brothers Kirste have been working all winter to de-Mossiefy the space. I peeked in the window last night and the reconstruction of this old-school lunch counter is closer to an exorcism. Gone are the dingy booths, dark paneling and the all-over mortician charm of Mossies. In its place are orange and blue walls, and a cool, streamlined interior that resembles a sleek cafeteria at a well-endowed university. What a relief. Beer will not be part of opening ceremonies, because the license was just obtained and those omnipresent kinks are still being worked. But you will be able to sink your pearls into dogs w/ blue cheese, chili, coleslaw, nacho cheese, sliced pepperoni, brined cured pickle spears, crushed pineapples and pizza sauce. Relax, BD may be Starbucks-like in its options, not in $$. Most dogs ring in under $3. Has anyone snapped one of these?

March 21, 2008

Today's the day

Okay food fans, it's official Mr. Jalapeno opens the doors to his Merrimack Street pico de gallo palace today promptly at 1 p.m. I don't know why I'm so excited about this, but I am. Maybe I need to get a life, maybe I need to get an Azteca soup: Mexican chix. soup w/ crispy tortilla strips, salsa, avocado and jack cheese. OR shrimp cocktail served w/ celery. cilantro, tomato, cukes and avocado. OR fish cerviches. But the real test will be Mr. J's guac. I was in Mexico in Sept. and the guac to be had in the tiny village was so good, a satisfying meal could be had w/ a side of chips. I want reviews, comments, suggestions, disappointments, accolades as they come in. This is your Jalapeno venting station. Ole!

March 20, 2008

Hope at paradiso

caffeparadisologo.jpgJust went in looking for the new cupcakes Caffe Paradiso is rumored to be carrying and was pleased to meet Dwey. The friendly new manager said changes are afoot at the Palmer Street italiano rest. Just the fact that he acknowledged us pleasantly was a big change. No more surliness or cold shoulder from a member of the staff had me thinking we took a wrong turn and ended up in the Coffee Mill.
It's amazing how much attitude can affect the feel of a place. I'd come here again if he stays on. Dwight will be adding more options to the a la carte menu and perking things up w/ fresh-cut flowers on the tables and red and white checkered table clothes he said. It was hard, but I refrained from suggesting he loose the Italian sports' flags. Is it just me or do those tacky NASCAR-looking banners bother you too? Doesn't rev my engine. Anything would help. The décor is not tired as much as static. It needs a makeover. The key lime pie cupcakes were being defrosted out back so we could not lay our eyes on the gems. They come from the Enchanted Bake Shoppe in Haverhill, which I hear is making our city friends to the north happy. Anyone been?

March 19, 2008

Jalapeno 411

Got off the phone w/ Mr. J. Looks like Friday is 80 percent a go. Seems the city inspections slowed him up. A mo. after he was set to open ( more than a month), we will finally have homemade tortillias on Merrimack. Don't loose faith people, when he does open Mr. Jalapeno will be the most in-compliance eatery in town. That should make you OCDers pleased. He is also planning on expanding into the space next store to add a bar. I, for one, love that idea, but he remains iffy those pesky bldg. inspectors would let him break on through to the other side. Can't they let us have any fun? Why stand in the way of progress to uphold some outmoded rules? Lowell will never resemble anything near Newburyport if we don't lighten up. Adam Bakke, you listening?

March 17, 2008

Burritos in Billerica

1CASA_Logo_jpg.jpgWhile we patiently await Mr. Jalapeno to pop, Casa Blanca opens with little fanfare today in Billerica. From fish tacos, to spinach enchiladas to burgers (?), this small chain w/ locations in N. Andover and Bedford, N.H. aims to meet all ages and taste buds. Dubbed Mexican family, the menu, look and feel of this new spot reads like a Chi Chi's of yore. Anyone remember that '80s chainery that invented fried ice cream? Ummm. The jury is still out about CB, but specials like pollo en mole, chix w/ that dark, rich, sweet chocolate sauce is one of our favs. And unlike Mr. J, the white house located on Chelms. Road. in the new mall across from Exxon, opens with a bar and a full line of margaritas. The Rosarita, hand-shaken w/ triple sec and fresh lime, clocks in at $6.99. We hear that Jalapeno eventually wants to expand into the spce next store and add a bar. At the rate it's taking Mr. J. to open, we are not expecting this to occur anytime soon. Ole!

March 14, 2008

Jalapeno update

I wasn't going to blog about Mr. Jalapenos, the new Mexican rest. on Merrimack, until I was 100 percent sure when it's opening. But seems pent up demand for pico de gallo is killing some of you. Here's what I know: Owner Ricardo (no relation to Gorham St. trattoria) is shooting for next tuesday. But I wouldn't bet the whole enchillada. The hold up has been inspections —electric, health and the litany that surround a rest. opening. As of Wed. he had passed electric (the hardest hurdle) and said w/some confidence he will open Mon. or Tues. But we've heard this twice already, so I cannot post w/ the accuracy I uphold this blog to that made-to-order tortillas and chili relinos will be avail. so soon. But the place looks great, sunny, intimate and free WiFi too. Put it this way, by April Jalapeno will be popping. Now what has anyone heard about Bad Dawgs, the hotdog shack slated to open this month on the same block?

March 12, 2008

Romancing the stones

Small plates, chill scene, a world of wine, beer and whiskey. Such is the plan for Moonstones, Scott Plath’s new venture in Chelmsford. Cobblestones’ more worldly cousin is set to open in the former Ground Round by May and the owner finally spilled some beans: “It will be relaxed, social, progressive, real comfy,” he said. The bar will be twice the size as Cobbies and while there will be white table clothes for fine dining, Moonstone’s is bar-centric. “The bar is the biggest area,” said Plath. Chef Manny will do double time in the kitch. for both establishments. You won’t see potato skins on the menu here, the look and feel is anti-chain. That’s music to my ears. I haven’t set foot in a chain since an old boyfriend used to drag me to chili’s. Those were the days. But hold on, this refreshing news doesn’t mean Moonstones will price some of you out. In fact Plath made a big point of saying “It’s not upscale, this is a place to socialize.” Seventy five percent of the wine on the list is priced at $30 and under. Refreshing. “It will not look or feel like a Ground Round at all,” said Plath.
Seeya at the soft opening.

March 10, 2008

Billerica goes Italian

An excited Billerica man left me a message over the weekend about North End steakhouse G’Vanni’s moving into the B-Ric. This Tuscan giant takes over the short-lived Indian Village on Boston Road. Menu leans on the classic side, which is what you’d expect to fly in this meat and pot. town. Chick and veal marsala, veal saltimbocca, cacciatore and hand-rolled ricotta gnocchi are the house hits. Was that my waistline expanding or yours? Wonder if they will downscale there prices when they go suburban. Not sure, outside of tech workers in for a power lunch, who will be forking over $39 for the delmonico bone-in rib eye. But steak eaters are used to the escalating price of beef. And G’Vanni’s takes this manly protein seriously. I’m on a meat fast, after bingeing last week, but as soon as I come to, the steak fiorentina, grilled sirloin layered over garlicky spinach, garlic reggiano sounds good to me.
www.gvannis.com

March 1, 2008

Coming up for Ayer

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It's been a while since i've gotten a good hit from a nearby town, the way I did yest. In Ayer. Starting off in the JP O'Hanlons' kitchen where chef Ed shared his secret to stellar fish n' chips (see next Wed. paper), I couldn't help but catch a pre-St. Paddy's Day buzz. “It's our busiest day of the year,” the revved and ready owner Rod told me. After a perfect-looking guinness was poured for the photo, I decided right then to make the trek here on the 17th. Not an easy feat to pull, it’s about a 25-min. drive from Lowell, but I know it will be worth it. This eight-year-old Irish pub just feels good. And w/an italian owner and Portuguese chef at the helm, the menu is an eclectic mix of irish pies and sicilian seafood. They also have a nice sun. brunch. On St. Pat's JPO’s is featuring music all day beginning at 11:30a. Note a $12-cover goes into effect at 3 p.m. If this scares you, go a day earlier. Sunday will be a dry run — food, music etc. geared for fams. But any leprechaun worth his tam o'shanter knows there is nothing quite like the day itself. So see ya at the bar at 1. jpohanlons. Next I paid a visit to the much-ballyhooed 31 Main a block west. Brick interior, sunny walls, nice bar, drop lights, many window tables … is this Ayer? Owner Karen Ingle is a pastry chef who cut her teeth at Biba, Boston Harbor Hotel and other impressive blue-blooded establishment. What’s she doing in Ayer? Too busy to elaborate because a staff member had called in sick and at 11:40, people where flocking in for lunch. Great sounding steaks and salads on the menu and the prices will not give you heart palpitations. Seems Ayer is finally stepping up to the plate. Would you make the trek for a meal + ambiance?

February 26, 2008

And speaking of coffee

We hear The Coffee Mill on Palmer Street in DTL is expanding into the Enterprise Bank space next-door. This will double their street frontage, as they lose the room in the back. They never did much with that warren anyway. It could have been a chill place to write, send emails, read this blog. but it remained a dingy space furnished w/ hard-back chairs. Ouch! Plans call for bistro tables and an increased area to lounge and sip the most economical cup in town. Big credit to owner Pattie who bought this biz from Lisa Genaway a few years ago and has kept the momentum going. She brightened up the joint w/ new hardwood and sunny walls. Not sure if this means more food items, right now Boston Chowda soup flies out the door at lunch. Is the C-Mill poised to take on Brew’d? What about Aiello, whose Zoka beans are so top-shelve they are practically cost prohibitive, but worth the credit-killing splurge. In the battle of the bean, who wins?

February 25, 2008

Jalapeno update

chili.jpg By this weekend things should start to get hot in here. If all goes well w/ those pesky health/bldg. inspections, Mr. Jalapeno, the newest hot head in town, will fling open his doors on Saturday. Every time I talk to owner Ricardo, I get a good feeling. Seems the process has dragged (when doesn’t it around here?) and he has had to add an emergency exit, which derailed his Winterfest opening plans. Anyway, he is optimistic this weekend will mean chili rellenos, enchiladas and cerviche on Merrimack St. A chef from Mexico is here waiting to train his chef/staff. There’s authentic and there’s “authentic,” this sounds real to me. The proof will be in the pico de gallo, but I like how this feels. Also in a change from the last time we spoke, he said corn tortillas have been added to the menu. So you can choose between flour and corn made in house. Nice. The atmosphere, sunny walls, tile, obligatory sun-themed pottery — imparts some needed cheer on the dark side of Merrimack St.

February 22, 2008

Athenian corner expands

corner.jpg It's been in the works for five years, but it looks like in early 2009 the Athenian Corner will finally be on a corner. The 34 year-old Greek rest. on Market Street
in DTL is expanding into its parking lot along shattuck st. This will double the rest.’s space and bring this old-school haunt into the brave new world. There will be a horseshoe bar serving late night tapas and a beefed up menu w/ more fish. "We're jazzing it up a bit w/ traditional favorites. There are nice new recipes we came across," said owner's son Teddy Panos. Construction begins this summer (if the Planning Board gives a green light). Seems most new rests. are adding late-night bites. I like it. So often we don't get it together early enough to grab a meal out before 10. Perfect for latecomers and Euros who dine after-hours. Seems to be more of the later here lately, sparking the dining scene's next wave. The expansion will also add a new visaul dimension downtown, which will be good eyecandy. Loved for its cozy atmosphere, the AC could loose something by going big, but let’s face it, this dankery needs an upgrade. This should give the Olympia/Zorba Room a run for its money. Of course ambiance only goes so far. In the battle of the Greek kebobs, whose got the best?

February 21, 2008

Andover wakes up

A trip into A-town today revealed a few morels on the gourmet trail. Not one, but two new culinary establishments are in the works for this downtown that sorely needs them. Come March 8 Serene takes over Vincenzo's on Main Street. Dubbed Italian/American, this second-story space above starbucks, has legs. Owner Sally Fabian, a former Hewlett Packard database engineer, took a buy out to cash in on her dream. How bold and beautiful! Stopping short of calling this a wine bar, she assured me vino will be prominently featured. Climate-controlled wine cabinets will be front and center along w/ a waterfall (points for viva la difference). In the kitch Chef Carlos from Bonfire, a Todd English joint, presides. Fabian was simply gushing over this coup. I know I've dissed English in posts of past, but I do love Bonfire's tacos. On Sundays a jazz brunch will hold sway and a local group of musicians play weekends. This is the right idea for this affluent town that has been lacking ample places for denizens to spread their green when the sun goes down. On my way back to the hood I noticed a sign for Boston King Cafe, near the new Butler Bank. Instincts (and a pic of a gooey choc. cake) tells me this dessert/cafe will be like Finale in Bos/Cam, a great place to indulge post dins or whenever the mood strikes. Their Web site boasts froyo! I for one am in.

February 20, 2008

Weenie alert

HotDogMustard.jpg
What struck me after a weekend in NYC, is how many great dogs can be found in the big A. Beyond the dirty waters pups on the street and the ever-pop Gray's Papaya, Crif Dogs on St. Marks St. was a great find. Low-key, good honest dogs ready in a jiffy was just what we needed after a footsore romp through the East Village. When I got back, I had to check in w/ the brothers behind Bad Dawgs slatted to open on Merrimack. Would, could this place at all be as cool as Crif’s? The answer is Yes. Owner James Kirste told me dogs, ordered steamed or grilled, come 35 different ways (more than Baskin and Robbins boasted). "You can get a hot dog w/ pepperoni or a buffalo with tangy sauce, blue cheese and celery," he said. Turkey/veggie dogs and draught beer are some of the highlights. That's right! Sam Adams and Bud. Also BD (formerly Mossies) will be open until 3 a.m. Thrus.-Sat. That should appease the nightowls tired of the schlepp to Santorias Pizza. Crews are now gutting the space and putting in hardwood floors and painting it orange and blue. Sounds like a basketball team. but cheerful just the same. Orange is the hot color in marketing right now. Bad Dawgs is opening in mid-March. This is something to bark about!

February 5, 2008

I've got a secret

A new homestyle rest. (along the lines of Good Thymes on Gorham St.) is set to open in a month on Cabot St. Next to Charlies (formerly the Rainbow Cafe), Secrets will serve up comforting fare. Sorry I don't have any real examples to tempt you w/ yet. Sounds more like a strip club, but these Secrets are recipes passed-down-from-your-g’ma I'm told. Still, I hope it's not too late for a name change. Mac and cheese and meatloaf will also be avail. in the neighborhood bar where M Ward has been known to hang. Kind of like the Angelina’s/Hookslide Kelly's situation.
ALSO a wine and cheese shop is slated to open soon in Kearney Sq. I know I buried the lead. Seems the owner of a certain Italian bistro (or should I say trattoria) will run the shop. Possible sights are next to Blue Taleh along the canal, or farther down Prescott St. If this shakes out, this old square could be reborn a gourmet ghetto. There’s also a cigar lounge rumored to be moving in here too. In nice weather the canal, where Sun trucks used to idle, could spark to life.

February 1, 2008

Where there's smoke

grill.jpg "Ain't nothin fancy mind ya, just a place where good folks go."
That's the slogan for the Village Smokehouse slated to open on Middle Street in DTL in April. Got the word yest. from a city official, so it's no longer blogger blather. Texas-style BBQ is coming to town. And in the lonely, sad, defunct former site of Evos Arts. You know, "Smiddicks." Smokehouse owner Alan Kaplan said the first floor will be one giant, 12,000 sq-ft restaurant — three times the size of his Brookline flagship. The bar will be on the side where folk club Capos resided for a spell in the early 2000s, and the rest. takes over Evos' bar, hard left. Their signature open-fire kitch. will be somewhere in the middle. Right now crews are sandblasting the bldg. back to its original glory. The second story will be a function hall, top two floors (office space i hear) hang in the ballance.
If you like reasonably priced ribs, rice and beer (yes pls) this will be your new hang. In keeping w/ the Brookline joint, VS North should be rustic/cas. Like a place you'd find in ski country. "It will feel great," he said. Whose ready?

January 24, 2008

New dog in town

doglogo.png Since the hotdog cart closed two years ago on Central Street, we have been dog deficient in DTL. No longer. Hip, gourmet frank shack Bad Dawgs is opening in the former site of Mossie's on Merrimack Street. What a nice turn-of-events. This franchise founded by a Northeastern grad, is infiltrating college towns in NE. There's one in Plymouth and Keene, N.H. The Web site says UMass Lowell is next, but it appears downtown won out. Looks like it's truly a dog-only shop w/ umpteen toppings. They've got sauerkraut, blue cheese, chopped celery and hot sauce. Don't know yet when this dog rolls out, but we can only hope by spring. Anyone dug the dawg?
baddawgs.com

January 23, 2008

Taleh opens, Fishbones expands

By the time you read this, the doors to the Blue Taleh could be wide open. The Thai/sushi rest. we’ve all been waiting for, is staying true to its projections and is opening Thurs. or Fri. I’ll know for sure tom., but then again so will you.
Word is the sushi will be top notch (sorry Etsogo). Chef Mike comes from famed Rock ’n’ Roll sushi on Boylston Street, a Boston restaurant that has the distinction of introducing me to my first maki roll/green tea combo. Chef Mike (don’t know his last name, hey this is a blog) has the distinction of being Sal Dimasi’s favorite chef. Does this mean House speaker will be chilling in Kearney Sq? Stay tuned.
In other noshnews, Fishbones, our favorite Chelmsford hang, will be breaking through into Classic Decorating Interiors next door to make way for a full-fledged bar! Won’t have the specs. for a few weeks, but this came from inside the fish house, so I would bet the fish farm. This Central Square hot spot has been dishing out Mediterranean platters, great tuna tartar and you name it. Too bad this is in such a hectic area. But they have a large parking lot in rear.

January 16, 2008

Jalapeno update

The front door might still be cracked from the last proprietor who skipped town in the middle of the night, but Mr. Jalapeno is poised to open by the end to the month. Owner Ricardo Cantilino gave me a quick rundown on the latest Mexican cantina to pop up on Merrimack Street in Lowell. First the good news: they are making their own tortillas. The brother and sister operation have purchased a maker from Mexico. Not sure if this will make a difference. Can anyone weigh in on this? The fresher the better I suppose. Mole and bbq dishes and spices from Mexico are what he is most proud of. Coffee will be organic Mexican altura, which my coffee snob friend tells me is right up there w/ Kona. So I say ole! Bad news: no margaritas as promised in my last Jalapeno post. But Ricardo tells me he is still going for a liquor license, it will just take time. Manana, manana! Look for Mr. J to open by WinterFest.

January 8, 2008

Restaurant forkcast

Things are looking up fellow foodies. Moonstones is on track in Chelms., we hear their bar is being installed today and Mr. Jalapeno, formerly Mike's Cafe on Merrimack St., appears ready to pop. I know our friends at the Mambo Grill across the way are less than pleased by this direct hit, and we can't say we blame them, but it is exciting to see new eateries opening downtown. Blue Taleh is on its way, by the end of the month at least, and to recap, the Village Smokehouse is not dead-in-the-water! And this is just the short list. By the spring Lowell will be shirking its reputation as gourmet wasteland and stepping up to destination status. Any other spots I missed? Anyone feelin' the food love?

January 6, 2008

Smokehouse back on track

Remember the plans, three years old by now, to open a rib shack in the space formerly occupied by Evos Arts Institute on Middle St. in Lowell? Well it's back on. Since the first of the year, a work crew has been inside the formidable, historic bldg. filling up dumpsters, looking at plans and clearing the space for rehab. A foreman told a source close to GG that the Village Smokehouse will open in early spring, April. This could be the shot in the arm the downtown needs to get it humming again. The owners whose Village Smokehouse in quaint Brookline Village has been an institution for several decades, will do this former textile storage hall justice. The Brookline spot has an open kitchen, bar w/ umpteen beers on tap, great ribs, pulled pork and chick sands. all tied up in a winning, laid-back atmosphere. Trust me this will be a dining destination.

Stay tuned to this blog for updates. I'm on the rib joint case!

December 27, 2007

My Blue Taleh foray

taleh.JPG It means ocean in Thai, and it sure is a sea change from the old Sun classified dept. I stepped into the Blue Taleh at 15 Kearney Sq. today and instantly forgot this was the same space I faithfully trudged through the last seven years. The pumpkin spiced and sassy green walls were instantly cheering on this gray/sleetfilled day. The curved bar w/ drop lights that will serve as martini/sushi central immediately catches your eye. When it opens in three weeks, sushi cases will reside on the far side, where raw fish will be rolled into seaweed and stacked into outrageous-sounding dishes like the volcano. Not the overwrought volcano roll that's exploded onto every sushi menu, this dish, owner Pon Ramirez tells me, is a sight to behold.
"A mountain of cooked scallops and slightly spicy tuna, stacked into a colorful presentation," is how she describes this edible Etna.
Presentation is the crux of the latest restaurant to reawaken downtown Lowell. But "whatever you do, I want fresh fish!" is what Pon's stressing to her two sushi chefs. Good. That's the best we can ask for in a sushi place. Bento boxes will be at-the-ready for office workers and Middlesex College students/faculty for lunch. With late night nigri offered till 1 a.m., and martinis stirred by a talented mixologist named Matt, how can this place go wrong? Pon, a Thai native, says duck will be her signature dish — sweet and sour and spicy. "Authentic Thai," is how her husband Steven, describes the fare.
This pleasing space that would be at home in a hipper hood, like, say Inman Square, will be a dynamic addition. I for one can't wait till mid-Jan. when the Blue Taleh breaks. Now we have two sushi options w/in a block of each other? Is this Lowell.

December 21, 2007

cuban.jpg This sign says it all. I implore you blog readers if you like meat at all, even a passing interest, try the cuban sandwich at Cafe Madrid in Chelms. This is not something I would normally eat, double meat? def. a guy order. But after seeing said sand. pile high
w/ savory slow-roasted pork, slices of smoky ham and subtle Swiss sealed w/ grilled ciabatta bread set my tastebuds aquiver. So I took a bite, and felt immediately perked. Where have you been all my life cuban sandwich? Cuba, you may be awash in political strife, but your national sand. is something to hold up high. I had a half for dins. and that held me.
Open 3 1/2 mo, this little noshspot, tucked away off Route 110 in Alpine Ln., has freshly prepared salads w/ tangy dressing, strong lattes and a mini wine shop too. Fireplace and comfy couches makes Cafe Mad. GG’s fav. hop from DT.cafemadridchelmsford.com


December 7, 2007

BBB goes bust

I was saddened to drive by Baskets, Baubles and Beans last night to see it had pulled out of Westford. This gourmet outlet on Route 110 had been offering wine, cheese, coffee (what else is there?) for six years in a town where Market Basket is the main food outlet. You'd think they would have survived. They even had cooking classes. A harbinger of an economy on life support, BBB has reverted to its Lunenburg flagship store. So next time you pay a visit to the Plastics Museum swing on in. I've long wanted to see a similar shop open in downtown Lowell, guess we'll have to wait until the second coming of Christ. Who would take a stab at this now? If it doens't work in this upperscaled town. Anyone know why they folded? There are not many coffee options in that area either. Westfordites I want to hear from you.

November 20, 2007

Let the burrito wars begin

f you like Mexican food, you're going to love this post.
Remember Mike's Café, that fairly seedy lunch place w/ a mid-east bent on Merrimack St.? Well hold onto your chalupas spice fans and meet Senior Jalapeno. Ricardo Candiani, of Billerica by way of Mexico, is set to open a Mexican restaurant in this space by Christmas. He let us in his shop last night as he was painting and laying tile and the vibe was warm and promising. His plan is to offer authentic Mexican food, burritos yes, but also chicken w/ mole sauce and all kinds of dishes
he grew up eating in the hood. Added Perk: coffee from Guatemala and other Central American regions will occupy a corner up front next to a salsa bar. Right across the street from the Mambo Grill, Senior Jalapeno maybe looking for a burrito war. But taco shops have tried to thrive on this street before (remember the short lived outfit a block east?) so who knows how this will shake out. It's not a zero sum game and burritos are the new coffee — there's a shop on every corner in most bastions of youthful hipness. (See Harvard Sq.). I think there's enough pico de gallo to go around. As always GG will keep you posted on Senior Jalapeno’s progress. Okay, I admit it, I love that name!

November 15, 2007

Lexington's got sauce

pizza.jpg Tooling round Lexington last night, I spied quite a few new dining hot spots springing up. Most notable: Upper Crust on Waltham Street (across from Vinny T's). Whose been? GG has not (sadly it was closed) but it looks great. Nice wood design, full bar, flat screen and high tables. Designery indeed. When did take-out joints class up? Next time you're in Harvard Sq. check out Flat Patties in The Garage — sleek and cheap. But Back to Upper Crust. They first opened on Charles Street in 2001 to give figs a little competition. Now (unlike figs) they are moving out to the burbs. Good news for Lowell denizens, a trip to Lex is 20 min.
From what I hear, the crust is thin and the toppings are portabella, fresh basil, chorizo, Canadian bacon, and you can pick your cheese- choose from blu, feta, gorgonzola, asiagio and ricotta. Also wines by the glass are $6-$7. theuppercrust.com
Nextdoor an Asian rest. is opening and the great gourmet ice cream parlor Rancatore's is at the top of the street. Parking is plentiful too. I don't know about you, but the next time a craving for new nosh hits (like tonight) Im wheeling my mini to the 781.

November 9, 2007

Crazy for chicken?

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Or pining for crazy chicken.
El Pollo Loco, Spanish for “The Crazy Chicken," opened in Tewks. this week. This is the first East Coast rest. for the Mexican chain which opened in 1975.
Calling themselves "quick-service" (fast food) PL sounds head and shoulders above Taco Bell. Flame-grilled chicken (which actually looks real), is marinated in citrus juice and come w/ warm tortillas. I haven't been, but our intern and photo chief gave strong reports. Okay, she felt a little queasy and went home early, but blamed it on eating too much.

The menu pulls few punches, burritos, salads, tacos and quesadillas, but the salsa bar could have promise — avocado, chipotle and pico de gallo salsas. Ummm. Do we like salsa bars, or are they dangerous?
Popular in California, Arizona, Nevada, PL tries to be health conscious. Has anyone been to one of the 300 PL's out West? The roll-out plan includes saturating the region making this is one f-ed up chicken that will not go away. The Tewks. spot is next to Walmart on Route 38.

November 2, 2007

Burlington goes pop!

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I took a culinary drive by Burlington yest. and I'm happy to report the news is um, um good. The old mall and chain is being usurped by serious restauranteurs. We're talking Tuscan wood-grilled ribeye, blue cheese soup and lobster BLTs. Was that my stomach, or yours?

My first stop was L'Andana on 3A (pix left). If you haven't heard of Jammie Mammano's newsest hotspot, you will. He of Mistral, Mooo, Sorellina and Teatro fame has taken his midas touch to Burlington. Chef-partner Robert Jean (Lowell homeboy) is overseeing the show at L'Andana. Jean, a jolly elf, appears tickled to be offering such tasty vittles to suburbanites. "Real Tuscan food." That translates to no fru-fru. At the helm in the kitchen is David Blessing (formerly of Silks at the Stonehedge Inn and The Four Seasons). His veal chops served w/ sweet polenta and chesutnut maple butter sounds heavenly as does the wood-roasted swordfish w/ roasted peppers, charred onions olives and chives. Now the decor: Mesquite floors, soaring ceiling and farm wood walls. Rustic chic. landanagrill.com
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Over at the Marriot's new Summer Winter, chefs Clark Fraiser and Mark Gaier (of Arrows in Ogunquit) bring their earth- forward Mainely New England meals to the former site of Allies.Talk about an upgrade. They open on Thurs. The opening party was last night and GG was there. Burlington pols., opinion leaders and ladies who don't lunch were slurping down cerviche scallops and rosemary martinis w/ glee. Hey it's about time Burlingtonians get more than pub fries. With a greenhouse in the back, raw bar and 150 wines on tap, Summer Winer is right in time. Look for a full report in next Thursday's Steppin' Out.

October 11, 2007

Haverhill's loss is Lowell's gain

Went to Etsogo in dt Lowell last night and I’m still feeling the love. Sat at the sushi bar (love that) and ordered yellow tail and salmon sashimi because it looked so fresh — and the chef told us to. He was right on. There was nothing fishy about these sparkly, clean cuts of fresh fish. The ginger was also perfectly strident and plentiful. A sucker for fancy rolls, I ordered the Green Dragon — a beautiful display of eel and cucumber topped with avocado, masago and a slightly too sweet sauce. But the star of the night was the Out of Control Roll. This powerhouse of tuna, salmon, yellowtail, cukes, avocado wrapped in seaweed packed the protein and taste.
Tuna and cucumbers rolls on the side were good palate cleansers. The green tea was warming, but I’m not sure it was green. Tasted barley heavy. They were out of Kirkun beer, so Sapporo had to do for gourmet guy. Decor is nothing to blog about, but when the sushi is this fresh I'll do w/o the fru fru. Also BIG BONUS: the tab came to $37 smacks. Unheard of for a decent sushi feed.
Weird, we were the only ones there the whole time. Maybe Lowell is dead mid-week I thought as I turned the corner to Market Street on our way home. But Centro was abuzz!? Fellow foddies, we must support Etsogo or, like the last three places to open here, they will be a flash in the pan. 16 Merrimack St., 978-323-7878. Delivery too.

September 26, 2007

Chelmsford: Mundane Suburb, or Gourmet Ghetto?

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Tapas hit the scene years ago. Any critic worth their Himalayan sea salt won’t go giddy over these Spanish bites. But in these parts they are hot, hot, hot. And look whose got em? Alpine Lane off Route 110 in Chelmsford. The mall formerly known as tired and ho-hum, is now home to Cafe Madrid. Croquettas, empanadas, salads and paella, the famed spicy rice dish, are the hallmarks of this Spanish spot. Beware: no liquor license yet. But they do have wine-free sangrias. And ... dessert from the Cheescake Factory! I know, I buried the lead. Coffee is from Colombian Octavo. Anyone got the drop on this bean juice? I’ve never heard of them, but I’m willing to be convinced. In other Chelms. food news, the owner of Cobblestones is still eyeing the empty Ground Round a few blocks east. Details are hush-hush, but slated to appeal to desperate housewives. That’s good news. Better than out-of-work plumbers. Food should be upper scale and trend-forward. The locavore lush Infusions Bistro and Legal’s Seafood rival Fishbones have kept the momentum churning for close to a year (that's 10 yr.s in restaurant time). Who did I miss?

August 17, 2007

Going Japanese

sushi.jpg Is there such a thing as too much sushi? Probably not, like a good cup of coffee, you can always sneak a roll or two in. Even for breakfast sometimes. After the long sad season of nothing close to sashimi in the MV, sushi is popping up like parking tickets on Merrimack Street. Look for Etsogo to replace Mandarin Kitchen this fall, and Blue Taleh to open a block away at 15 Kearney Square around the same time. Both promise Japanese cuisine. While sushi is delicious and healthy, it’s not like a turkey sub. It should not be trifled with. Raw fish needs to be frozen at the right temp and handled by a studied sushi chef. Not that these places won’t do that, but sushi should not be treated like another cool app.
Karma, which opened a few weeks ago in Westford is run by a guy who comes from Ruby Foo in Manhattan. This is a time-tested Japanese/Chinese fusion spot. I’m told the bluefin tuna belly melts in your mouth. Whilst I’m as happy as the next restaurant freak to see so much happening, we need a little diversity. How about an upscale Mexican joint?

August 14, 2007

Groton’s food fest

Looking for a tasty summer bargain? The Stagecoach Inn in Groton is running a food and folk festival for the next three Fridays that’s built to suit those of us with sushi tastes and wasabi budgets (ie, journalists, pipe fitters, waitrons). To celebrate the arrival of their new chef Rich Tambling, the historic inn where Paul Revere and Grant (not Hugh, Ulysses S) stayed is offering New England boiled lobster, chicken, steak and a medley of summer and fruit salad for $30. Dessert by Party Favors is included. Package includes live music from local mellow fellow Chris McDermott (Aug. 17 from 7 to 10 p.m.) The following Friday is live jazz and then Mugawump takes over Aug. 31. I don't know what they sound like, but I hear they are good for digestion, The buffet also includes dessert. This beats Boston’s restaurant week, as the trips are unlimited, but the lobster is a one-off. 128 Main Street. Groton.GrotonStageCoachInn.com


August 8, 2007

Khmer-i-tude

locluc.JPG Just returned from the opening of Tepthida Khmer, the new Cambodian restaurant on Chelmsford Street. My mouth is still tingling from the vivid flavors this cuisine imparts. We are talking lemongrass, garlic, lime leaves and coconut milk, all the tastes of the exotic land we hear so much about living in Lowell, but probably will never visit. Owner Ely Phlek Hsu of Lexington rolled out the red carpet treatment for gourmet gal, delivering square dish after square dish of kompot wrap, a Cambodian-style pot sticker, and locluc, cubed tenderloin beef on healthy salad (pic shown). We got a whirlwind tour of the kitchen, which was in overdrive for this packed opening. But we did catch a glimpse of energetic young chefs tossing rice and pad Thai around like it was pizza dough. We liked the spicy seafood salad served with lime and the shrimp rice dish tucked into a pineapple (who doesn't like that?) On the couch next to me was an ad man who was totally digging his chicken wings for their plentiful "meat on the bone." Decor is urban cool, a step up from most of the Asian restaurants in Lowell. Interior artist Stephen Suon lends a nice clean touch to this former furniture store. Concrete floors (which im having a love affair w/ now) keeps things cool and the giant exposed I-beam overhead meshes with the white/brown raised ceiling for a crisp/industrial look. As my accidental dining partner said consistency is everything w/ restaurants. Time will tell if Tepthida Khmer is up to snuff, but this blogger for one is rooting for them.
www.tepthida.com. 115 Chelmsford St., Lowell. A short walk from the commuter rail stop.


July 31, 2007

Left Bank makes a splash

The news coming out of Silks-turned-Left Bank has been good, but now, hold on to your Zagats Guide chowhounds, it just got better. The announcement of Harvest chef Keith Pooler jumping to the luxe Stonehedge Inn in Tyngsboro today is music to our foodie ears. Pooler, a Gloucester native, has worked with Boston uber chef Lydia Shire, so he must have some tasty ideas up his white sleeves and here's hoping lobster factors in there somewhere. Incase you're not in the loop, the Harvest is one of the first Harvard Square foddie establishments. Plans at the Pawtucket Palace include overseeing a garden (planted next spring) on 36 acres of the sprawling grounds. You know, where the horses used to run. We all know the inn has the best/largest wine list in the country and now a celeb chef. Make your holiday getaway reservations now. Room service anyone?

Blue Taleh coming soon

Demolition is set to begin on the Blue Taleh restaurant next week. Remember the Lowell Sun lobby? By the time the leaves fall it will be remade as the stylish restaurant de jour. Sushi will be rolled and martinis mixed at a serpentine bar in front of the window looking out on Kearney Sq. A patio by the canal will seat 30 people.
“The martini bar will be the big draw,” said Steven Ramirez, the North Andover entrepreneur who bought the 3,000 square-foot first floor space. It’s hard to imagine, but this guy is gung-ho and smartly wants to tap into the pre and post-theater crowd.
A combination of great appetizers, like teriyaki chicken and salmon rolls will roll out in record speed. “Eat quickly and head out,” he said.
Sushi has not been made locally since I started this blog (and long before that, remember the short-lived Ichibod?) so Blue Taleh will be a welcome sight. Is Lowell getting a restaurant scene?

July 6, 2007

Centro opens soon

In a month new mod Mediterranean restaurant Centro opens on Market Street in Lowell. This is what we live for. We have not had a new dining experience downtown in years. The menu is still being finalized, but chef Patty Stella, of La Boniche and the Andover Inn, has joined forces with the bartender of uber swank Beantown institute Lockobers, and that can’t be bad. The lounge/open kitchen split will give Lowell what it so badly needs, a cool place to eat, cocktail and linger over brunch on Sunday. They plan to open during Lowell Folk Festival weekend (July 27-29), failing that, Stella will be serving food out on the sidewalk during the fest. Geared toward the 30+ crowd, Centro, I expect will be a boon. The interior is aqua and brown. There will be a couch to chill and a martini glass chandelier. When it opens, expect a full report. Location is the former flower shop between the post office and Niki Tsongas’ office. If this turns out to be as good as I suspect, gourmet gal will be a regular.

May 24, 2007

Eating out

Hey, I've noticed a few cool outdoor cafes popping up this spring in Lowell. Olive That & More turns their Market St. patio into a beer garden at night. Plants, lights, beer and sandwiches makes this a nice alternative if you want to get out of your house and mix it up w/ your neighbors. Also Portuguese restaurant the Four Seasons on Central Street has put tables out too. The food here is authentic, fresh and made by real Brazilians. Another Portuguese spot featuring al fresco dining is Friend's Restaurant on Market. Umbrellas and mosaic tables in the back combine with refreshing and cheap white wine and spicy sausage for a alternative nosh out. In Chelmsford Fish Bones has opened its patio in swinging Central Square. Any others I'm missing?

April 25, 2007

Merrimack Street eats

Two new restaurants just opened on Merrimack Street, JD Roast Beef and Angelinos Subs, within a block of each other.
On a quick drive-by, I am relieved to report that Angelinos has style