Gourmet Guy and I uncorked a 2005 bottle of Bada-Bing Barbera last night from Red Oak Winery in Middleton. Wow! How to explain the complex character of this grape juice ... it rocked on. No Robert Parker here. A fine no-nonsense wine for a Monday night. But showy enough to crack out w/ prime rib and unexpected company (does this quaint notion happen anymore?). I stumbled upon this Mass. winery (talk about an oxymoron) on Route 114 just north of North Andover and thought, why not? What makes stopping into Red Oak more pleasing then stopping by the local packy, is being able to try the wines before you buy em. Good policy. How many time have you hemmed and hawed over the great marketing on the label, gotten home only to be faced w/ another yellow tail in disguise? Too many, too damn many. The concept is great. Winemaker gets his grapes from Lodi, California and makes the wine (mostly reds) in French oak barrels. You can go inside the wine room and see the casks, offered to me w/o prompting. I recommend the award-winning chard too. I'm going back for a mixed case soon. Local is local is local, right? www.redoakwine.com

Remember when a burger was considered bad food? It was back in those heady pre-Atkins days when meat was shunned. We'll Im happy to report, direct from the diner trenches, that the patty-meets-bun duo is back, this time streamlined and healthy for summer. Bridget's Greek burger at the Dream Diner in Tyngs is made w/ swirls of spinach and nuggets of feta. Tasty? Yes. Good for you? We can kid ourselves into thinking this is a salad in a bun. Hold your fire vegans, we are meant to be carnivores. Monday's a perfect day to grab a burger and a rootbeer float at this nostalgic spot. I'd forgotten how magical this hashhouse is. The Supremes on the radio, omelets and sundaes flying. OK, I'll say it, I felt like a wide-eyed five year-old again when I stopped in on Fri. There is a reason this vinyal-boothed-haven is always packed and its not the sweet smell of home fries (altho that's good too). Owner Marybeth Shanahna exudes so much warmth, surly biz owners (and you know who you are) could take lessons from her grace. She looks like she could work in Alice's Diner (who the hell is Alice?), but I can't imagine this kindly pink-dessed broad telling anyone to kiss her grits. Located on Middlesex Rd, steps from the Pheasant Lane Mall, Dream Diner lives up to its name. Learn how to make the Greek burger in Wed.'s Sun. www.lowellsun.com/signaturedish.

TGIF food friends. Let's get down to it. Where to spend our recession-proof dollars this wkend? Im longing to try Unums in Nashua. I popped into this Tuscan-themed (trend alert) bistro last wk. and was bowled over by the charm spewing forth. Burnt orange walls, soothing h20fall and two bars, makes this an appealing spot. The 2nd bar is a chef's bar, ie open kitchen seating. Like a sushi bar only w/ flames of fire and linguini flying instead of seaweed and wasabi. The menu too was staggering and refreshing. Daring combos (but in a good way) i've never heard of graced the pages. Okay I don't have it in front of me, but trust me it tantilized. Id lke to hit Unams, 47 East Pearl st. beyond Manhattan on Pearl on the left.
www.unums.com. Also Saffron is a newish spot near the Peddler's Daughter that's getting raves. Where are you dropping fork tonight?

What smells so good that's got TV Diner's Billy Costa senses perked? Leg of lamb at the Elegant Chef in Westford. Never been to the EC? It's tucked away in Nashoba Valley Tech High School and it's turning heads. Talking heads. Costa and his crew turned up at the school today and sampled the student-made specialties the culinary kids are known for.
We heard Costa was most impressed by the creme brulee. And who doesn't like this toasted French treat? Oh you can mess up this dessert, believe me. I had it recently in Keene N.H. and it wasn't even warm. In fact it was cold. The whole point of this delicacy is the warm, hard, sugary exterior made-so by a blow torch. But if the brulee is defrosted at room temp, it's no good. Right?
The EC is a great find and prices are recession proof. Hours are early tho, so get there by 1 p.m. if you can.

Like beer w/ your hot dogs? To quote Ricky Gervais ... Obviously. The taps will be inaugurated tomorrow at Bad Dawgs on Merrimack Street ushering in Sam Summer, Coors and Bud Light into the noonday nosh. Beer will finally be offered w/ the gourmet dogs that have local tails wagging. Now that's a combo I can get behind. Night Owls: BD is open till 3 a.m. on Fri. and Sat. Also we hear the service and dogs are much better. Grrrrrrrrrrrreat.

The Boott Mill sandwich is as Lowell an institution as they come. Preceding the Egg McMuffin by a good many years, this gonzo gut-buster at Arthur’s Paradise Diner is a must. This is our Philly cheese steak. If you’ve haven’t been acquainted with this fired egg, bacon, sausage, ham, home fries and cheese on-a-roll wonder, have you been in jail? That’s the question affable owner Paul Delisle asks of his uninitiated customers. Stop into the tiny Worcester dinning this weekend. Hours are 7 to 11 on Sat and 9 to 1 on Sun. Also, (and this is huge) coffee is free at this Bridge Street joint. And it's not bad either. How does the mighty BMS stack up vs. other breakfasts sands around town? I've noticed Olive That & More has a sign outside that says: "Our breakfast sandwiches are better." Are they throwing down the gauntlet to the Boott? Sorry guys, these portable meals didn't fuel mill workers around the clock for nuthin.
Find out how to make a Boott Mill in next week's signature dish at www.lowellsun.com.

There's a new ice cream shop in Lowell.
It hasn't opened yet, but a trio of downtown biz owners are scouting small, vacant storefronts as we speak and expect to open in the next 30 days. "We want to do it fast," said Andy Jacobson owner of Brew'd Awakening, who is partnering w/ Matt and Franky Descoteaux of the Mambo Grill in this frosty foray. I sure hope fro-yo is part of their chill scene.
Has frozen yogurt ever exisited w/in the confines of the Mill City? Not on my swatch. Sometimes there's nothing like a fresh dollop of soft serve to get you through the day. Especially when it's 92 out. Can't wait for that. The consistency, I find, is far superior to hard pack. Just that name "hard pack" leaves me cold. Anyone excited about this? I hear chocolate will play a role in this venture too. A chocolate shop in Lowell is long overdue. Really, what are the kids in this city doing? Crack? They, we need a shop like this.

Never. Especially when the de facto holiday falls on a Sunday. The Mayan gods are messing w/ us this year, but don't worry, crafty restaurateurs are moving the day of the endless margarita to Friday so we can imbibe w/out the worry. Yea!
Dos de Mayo will commence at the Mambo Grill on Merrimack Street on Friday May 2. Bring a mask and enjoy house band Lowercase p, $2 margaritas, tamales, guac this way, and a new pulled-pork sandwich the Baja-style taco shop is rolling out today — the Tango Torta. This fusion bite made w/ avocado, caramelized onions, BBQ sauce and bolillo bread, a tradtional Mexican cracked-wheat roll, sounds like a fine mid-week lunch option. See ya on the sidewalk.
Any other salsa joints getting in on the early De Mayo act? I want to hear from you!

They say winter is the ideal time for wine and cheese. But my tastes run counter. I get the hankering for humbolt fog when the sun comes out. I haven't had a whack of artisan-quaility curd since my sister brought over a tray from Formaggio Kitchen. That was on X-Mas Eve. So I was delighted to discover that Trader Joe's in Tyngs. is having a cheese tasting on Wed from 5 to 7 p.m. Cheddar, brie, mozzaeralla and Feta are among the free samples. The cheese selection here is pretty diverse. Not as impressive as Whole Foods, but at least you'll have a little money left over for crackers, bread or olives. Grab a wine at the Liquor Shop next store and your Wed. just got better. What would make sense is to combine this w/a wine tasting. Are you listening Liquor Shop, Wine Society, N.H. staties?

Etsogo on Merrimack Street has been overshadowed by the Blue Taleh, a block east. But this top-notch sushi den really is a gem. I was blown away last night by the clean, elegant salmon, yellowtail and tuna. We started w/ thimbles of sake and the sushi arrived in a flash. I like designer rolls, gourmet guy wants his w/o the frou-frou. But I think the Etsogo roll may have changed his mind. What's in it? I can't recall, I was in such a state of bliss as it crunched/exploded and danced in my mouth. Think there's a touch of eel and perhaps a thin layer of tempura, avocado and ... drooling into my keyboard here. It made me feel like jumping up and kissing the sushi chef, let's just leave it at that. The friendly woman who runs Etsogo steered us to the Paradise roll, which was a nice visual, but too souped up for my taste. Was that mayo and ketchup drizzled on top?
Seems all this creativity is turning sushi into the new martini. Anything rolled up can pass, the more outrageous the better.
Today's debate: When it comes to sushi do we like it plain jane or all dolled up like a show girl?

Just met the boys from the show. They were shooting dogs on site and schmoozing w/Bad Dawgs CEO Charles Sayegh (pictured). This shows he stands behind his product. He's not only the owner, he actually eats these things. Lowell's newest hotdog bistro will make the Phantom Gourmet special hotdog edition when it airs in May. Check local listings please. The producer and camera dude have a fun job. They were slicing up the pitbull and Italian Greyhound like it was birthday cake. I tried em both. The pitbull was a runaway hit. Nothing I would normally order (1,000 calories I imagine), loaded w/ baked beans, bacon bits, BBQ sauce, blue cheese crumbles and jalapenos, but a novelty none the less. When you're ready to feed the donkey take the pitbull for a walk. But look out, it's a little bit dangerous!

Had a sublime salad at Ricardo's last night. Strawberries and gorgonzola w/ winter greens in a white balsamic vin. Excuse me? I thought I had died and gone to California where they respect the greens. And it was healthy. Ha! If eating right was always this easy, our country wouldn't be facing an obesity problem. We also had Ipswich fried clams which didn't disappoint. Although I had my heart set on calamari, which they do quite well, the clams were on special and they came from the home of this regional delicacy. Served w/ a nice slaw, and a tiny bed o greens it almost felt healthy too. The minestrone soup was another sleeper hit. It's not for nothing Rick's has won the soupbowl comp. more than once. We miss Kevin, but it seems their new chef Steve has added a renewed focus in the kitch. Of course at Rick's it's all about the ambiance. The mood here is jovial on a Thursday, little jazz band in the corner, and singer Lura Smith, who was dining at a table next to us, got up and belted one out at the end of the night. Nice. And when the bill came, it came w/o heart palpatations. Where are you eating this weekend?

Just had a turkey and a steamed beef dog at Bawd Dawgs and I'm still licking my lips.

OK, I didn't go to this restaurant last night, because it's in Lyon, France. But I got close. We went to Le Lyonnaise in Acton and it was like stumbling across a country kitchen in Burgundy. Simple. Elegant, worth the 25-minute wait we endured w/ rezzies. But a party of 30 was in the house and the protraction got our juices flowing. When we did land at a candle-lit table w/ white roses by the window, we were ready for an experience. And splash-out we did. One Kir Royale, escargot, a veal chop, bordeaux and floating island dessert later and I was in Francophile nirvana. So was gourmet guy who, digging into his crepe-covered tenderloin surprise, cried out "this is seriously good." And it was, it was. If I could throw out a bon mot or two here I would, but I took Spanish in high school. This unassuming white ranch off Route 2A is the closest thing we Yankees can get to French gastronomie. As if you need proof, there are two pix of Julia Childs on the wall w/ owner Gerard. Save this one for a special occasion, it deserves it.

Who has the best buns in town? The cutest cakes? Peter from Billerica poses this intriguing something to chew on. I haven't thought about Lowell bakeries simply because there are so few. OK, OK, the Portuguese Bakery on Gorham St., is a local fav. But what else we got? The Brazilian Bread House is not a bakery in my opinion. I don't know how they stay in biz. But today is Friday (and a Good one at that) so I will try and keep this post Christ-like. If I have to pick a flour house in our midst I'm going w/ Bittersweet Bake Shoppe in Tyngs, or the relatively new Buono Panini in the B-ric. I went in there last wkend and the forest cakes looked perfectly decadent. Word is a new dessert cafe "may" open in Kearney Sq. along the canal next to Blue Taleh (ethics alert: Sun pub. has ties here), but I have heard nothing def. Would be great if it turned out to be like Finale in Boston/Hav. Sq. A dessert emporium w/ cordials and caps. You know, something for the post-theater crowd.
What's your bakery of choice?

Walking through the curtain at the Centre Street Cafe, “that” feeling hit me. I knew I was going to like this place. With its low-lighting, pleasing jazz and friendly vibe, this casual find on Centre Street in JP is the kind of relaxed spot every town needs. The menu reads like a vegetarian, organic joint, but there is meat hidden here and there. I had a saboom, aka a riot of vegetables, seasoned w. garlic and ginger on a bed of lomein. Gourmet guy had chicken enchiladas, layered in a deep dish w/ much cheese. The food was great, but it was the feeling infused throughout that really nourished us. Waiters hugged diners, cracked jokes and treated everyone like a regular. For 20 years The CSC has been there for the lucky denizens of JP, giving them fresh and *LOCAL* meals. In the summer heirloom tomats and all kinds of crazy fresh produce hit the menu. We are coming back. I couldn’t help but think a place like this would fly in Lowell, even as causal rests. are closing. If you’ve got all the elements, like Centre Street you will do well. Total bill w/ wine and beer: $40.

Sick of odwalla? Had it w/ smoothies? How about a banana and cardamom Dahlicious? New frothy Indian drink from a Babson grad who lives in Tewksbury seems to be taking Whole Foods by storm. The health drink, made w/ gourmet yogurt, comes in five flavors — mango is the most popular. Okay, I don't know how much it costs, but the Whole Foods label gives you an idea. I'm meeting w/ the ceo on Friday and will report back. I assume they are a pretty penny because the fruit comes with a story, and the drinks are made in a top organic dairy barn in upper state NY. I for one am beginning to realize you gotta pay extra if you're gonna feel good. Notice how sugar-filled the "smoothies" sold in Asian markets are around here? And really what could be more important than what we ingest? Has anyone tried Dahlicious? Could be the Rockstar equivalent for those of us more likely to hit the gym than the mosh pit. Check Life Alive, they may carry it soon.
THE RESULT: I sipped a Mango-go for an eye opener this a.m. Easy on the stomach, its a good precursor to the harshness of black coffee in bed. I like this flavor a lot. A cross between a smoothie/yogurt drink, lassi (as the drink is called in India) is a nice change from other health drinks I've sipped. The banana and cardamon was good too. But my money's on mango. As a pro-biotic, the live cultures help the digestive track sing.

It's not a typo. Today, Tuesday February 26, Dunkin' Donuts is doing the unthinkable and offering lattes, both iced and hot, for 99 cents from 1 to 10 p. The reason? Most Starbucks are powering down from 5 to 830p to train baristas to make espresso. Weird, I thought they already knew how. You mean I've been forking over $4 for inferior mochacinnos? This is a good move by Canton-based DD and shows these two bean houses are out for blood. Our gain. Happy caffeine holiday everyone! See ya at the driv-thru.

Can you dig it? I pulled this pic off the Boston King Cafe site because it makes me think spring. It may be snowing out, but wouldn't this taste treat hit the spot? Cafe owner Paul Son is an Andover resident via South Korea. There is a Boston King in Woburn, which does quite well. Tea imported from Japan, espresso, breakfast, lunch and healthy dins like killer salads are all part of this fare. But fatfree froyo in straw, blue and boysen berry with fresh fruit will be worth the trip. Sounds like a touch of California in tweeded-up Andover. Maybe this town is ready to exhale.
Set to open in mid-March, this is the kind of casual take-out joint that every town needs.

Popped into the java room yest. to take shelter from the storm. And what before my wondering eyes did appear, but Candy Liu’s coffee cocktail, the mudslide. Move over double, skim latte. This potent drink is one funky monkey. Made with chocolate and caramel sauce, French roast coffee and equal parts Kahlua and Balieys it’s a desert/coffee/nightcap in one. The java room is Chelmsford'd answer to greenwich village. They have poetry readings, live jazz (tomorrow night the legendary Paul Combs is in the house) coffee from George Howell’s Terroir co., (the saintly founder of the coffee connection) and now a wine bar. What more could a frustrated suburbanite or sanguine soccer mom want? The bar, which opened this fall is tucked into the far corner near a piano. It’s small and perfect. Bloggers bring your laptops and sip a glass of 14 Hands merlot, your boss isn’t watching. But caffeinated cocktails (like the way that rolls off the tongue), is something starbucks and DD can’t touch. JR knows how to cure the ails of february. See ya at the bar.

Since it's feelin' very Seattle out there and in here, our measly mind turns to thoughts of java. Coffee, beanjuice, mud, no matter what you call it, brew it now. I recently discovered Ugly Mug Coffee from Memphis. How did I find it? It landed on my desk. Sweet Jesus, what a surprise. Not one, but two bags — a lighter blend called first cup and a heavier hardy roast — came to me by mail. Must be this kick-ass blog that caught their attention. So after a week and a half of enjoying this coffee every morning, noon and night, I am now habituated and must order by FOD, fix on demand. Seriously this Tennessian coffee is absolutely smashing. This morning I sadly had to brew Peet’s Major Dickson, on sale for $6.99 at Mbasket. But it just doesn't cut it. Like a virgin wine drinker, whose tasted grand cru for the first time, I cannot return to the average joe. This, hip, edgy co. seem to know more about advertising/marketing than coffee roasting. The web site uglymugcoffee.com is funny, but not informative if you are a coffee nerd like me. But really what do I care, just give me more Ugly Mug! They have 10 blends like saving grace, good vibes and some flavors: Cinnamon sugar cookie. I like it all. Says this stuff is avail. from texas to maine, but I haven't come across it. Anyone know where ugly mug can be nabbed in the MV? I'm thinking of opening a shop in Haverhill, would you come?

Coffee and a cheeseburger eggroll. Excuse me?
Sounds like a cardiologist’s dream. But this crazy combo is my new fav. guilty pleasure. Foisted upon me by chef Michael Kit and Sengly at the Eggroll Cafe yest., this unlikely two-fer had me smiling all the way out into the snow-banked sidewalks and back into my place of employment. Not bad for an idle Tues. in Jan. Maybe I needed the protein. After the first crispy crunch, the eggroll exploded with juicy burger and warm, comforting cheese. This was far from any burger i’ve bitten. Because this morsel is deep-fried in canola, the temp and text. was so right. I love a meal that contains heat and flavor, but mostly heat. And this roll was piping.
Someone cracked "that's a deep fried burger, no wonder it was good."
But it certainly doesn't taste that grotesque. It's an innocent eggroll.
What also works is the size, compact. Who hasn't been out in mixed company, dying for a burger, but worried about fitting a large, packed bun into your mouth? Here come these dainty rolls to the rescue. The neat, Cambodian-style is small and not doughy.
The Illy coffee is good here too, strong and a nice accompaniment to these rolls.
Kit tells me the Eggroll Cafe on University Ave. is a test location. Owners, who live in Japan, may eventually open more near college campuses. Yum! Want to learn to roll your own? Check out my signature dish col. in next wed.'s sun.
eggrollcafe.com

Before heading to the Big Razor last weekend I stopped into Meat Again on Boston Road in Billerica. What a shop. Who knew such succulent cuts of meat were to be had in this hectic strip mall zone? I guess many of you, as owner Dan O'Brien tells me he's been open for 27 years.
This carnivore convert was lost in a maze of meat, clearly out of my element among links and chops and other assorted red slabs. I needed ribs and O’Brien recommended a large pack and told me exactly how to be grill queen at the game. Cook in the oven for two hours at 200 on a cookie sheet, meat side up. Transport on ice in plastic bags to tailgate. Slap on the grill for 10 min. each side, brushing on the bbq sauce at will. OMG! It was fall-off-the bone fabulous. I had to fight off the die-hard grill junkies asking me "How'd ya do it?"
I owe it all to Dan O and his brilliant butchery. It's nice to have a meat man you can trust. He even gave me the bags for transport. They have a deli w/ pulled pork and bbq turkey club melt sandwiches too. There's a Meat Again in Westford, but the Billerica shop's got game. Has anyone caught this meat buzz? What's your favorite meat market?

Want a cheap lunch? Think there’s no such thing? I just got a tip about a guy named Tony from Mill City Catering. He whips together hot, tasty lunches on his truck that zips through Western Avenue Studios at noon each weekday. Artists tell me the food is nothing to balk off. Historically penniless, the members of our creative economy are living large on chicken Parmesan on Wed., burgers, pasta and token sandwiches, plus chips and drink for under $5. That’s right folks, don’t adjust your screens, I said “under $5.” What’s so gourmet about a contractor’s lunch? Nothing. But w/ the economy in the chopper, we could all use a break. Plus this is 5 min. from where I work.
Note: Tony doesn’t linger. He’s in and out in 10 minutes, so don’t delay! That’s 122 Western Ave., Lowell. Has anyone had a worthy truck lunch? Would you consider these lowbrow meals on wheels?

Has anyone been to the sparkling new Whole Foods in Andover? Formerly Wild Oats, this large grocer off the town center, recently transformed into the organics megastore. I went in reluctantly (for fear of loosing every last dime in my wallet) the other day just to get some fish. Right.

Only a fool would think you could exit WF w/ just one item. This place is so seductive. A color wheel of produce stacked like an ICA installation (carrots can do that?) delights the eye. Crusty, wheaty, nutty breads call out to you from wooden bins. And the cheese aisle? Ah, the fromage. A small slice of emmenthaler is $15 and perfect, organic, rosemary wheat crackers, $8. But at least I look good under the soft lighting and the squeeky wheels a la Market Basket are not killing my nerves. What's that, a potted fern? Lovely.

At first you’ll think it’s the same store, but walk on and a neat, well-designed array of top-of-the line organics snake out before you. I swear I felt healthier just walking through this place. The layout is more focused; the area that sells vitamins, oils, etc. is like a shop w/in a shop. Organic toiletpaper? Why not.

I was feeling great until I reached the far end of the room and realized something was terribly off. No more wine! The holistic mafia decided to do away w/ the great wines and imported beers that made WO a big draw. The guy at the fish counter gave me the rote response: no license avail for all stores. Bummer. The wine selection here was as good as Andover Liquors down the street, but better for the convenience. However, the tilapia was the best I’ve had! If it wasn't swimming that morning I'd be mighty surprised.
Has anyone taken a spin through?

We motored our mini to Manch Vegas yesterday hoping to catch some pres. candidates in action. With four days to go til the primary, the frontrunners were fanned out across the Granite State. Manch. was not hot w/ hopefuls. But we did notice an inordinate numb. of Irish Pubs, The Wild Rover, Murphy's, Millies, Shaskeen … one on every corner. For lunch we settled on the Red Arrow Diner, 61 Lowell St. off Elm.

I had heard about this 24-hour diner straight-from-central- casting for years now and was itching to try it. The klieg lights stationed in the snow outside the tiny boxcar, invited images of Obama opining over omelets inside. Thrusting through the narrow double doors … no Barack, Hil or Ed. Instead a foot-high layer cake on a chrome counter, hearty hash and pancakes as big as chargers on the eye-level grill changed our foucs fast. After listening to the bushy haired college kids at the Stop Global Warming hut, we were hungry.

Sitting at the raised Formica bar flanked by flannel-clad regulars, it felt work-a-day real. This isn't a diner trying to be a diner (hello Johnny Rockets) the Red Arrow IS a diner. And that's refreshing. If you like a big feed and kitschy waitresses this is your place. Myself, still bouncing back from a meat-forward holiday session, was not up for a full cholesterol binge. So I ordered a turkey club w/ coleslaw. While satisfying, real turkey and bread w/a good crunch, I over mayoed myself and wished I had said, "hold it." I swore off the stuff for 10 yrs. and anytime I spy a dollop I have to psyche myself up. Could have used a pickle to achieve the all-important moisture quotient.

Had I been in an egg or pancake place or even a slice-of-pie-and-bottomless-cupa-coffee mood, I probably would have fared better. Nevertheless its heart is in the right place and any diner devotee would be happy as a clam at high tide at the Red Arrow.

Bread, bountiful bread. So nourishing and wholesome. The milk of mandkind, you might say. Yesterday I spent a blissful hour in the Nashoba Brook Bakery in W. Concord, enveloped in the smell of the staff of life. I bought a whole wheat sourdough and a day-old rosemary sourdough (pic left). Now sometimes sourdough can be, well, sour. But this is perfectly tangy and the texture is soft on inside, crunchy outside. Textbook. It toasts up nicely too. Visit the tucked-away cafe if you can find it. Behind a large parking lot at the tip of Commonwealth Ave. Coffee is good too. A cup of Palermo goes nicely w/ a slice and the quiet nook overlooking the brook invites writing, surfing, reading or old fashioned zoning out.

Stew. Just saying the word warms me up. The rainy, snowy weather that marked the first day of the year set me on a stew quest. After a bracing, okay insane, walk on a pelting beach in Beverly yesterday we pointed our car toward the center of town and Kitty O’Shea’s appeared like a beacon in the distance. “That’s it!” we cheered and dashed into the Irish pub like wet ghosts of New Year’s past. Out of chili and with no soup of the day on tap, we ordered two bowls of Guinness stew and nursed pints. Ahhhh! Arriving in bread bowls, the thick, dark stew was smoky, savory and made me forget my wet leggings and boots dripping under the table. As my glasses started to steam, I wondered “why have I never had this before?” It may be that I used to swear off meat and potatoes for fear of winter weight. But, my carb-loving man informed me “This is what you need in winter.” I felt so good after polishing this bowl, I just knew he was right. I’m on a quest to see where said stew can be found in the Lowell area. Any leads?

On Friday night I dined with friends at Abe and Louie’s on Bolyston Street. The steak was great as was the service, swordfish and sautéed spinach. Being the holidays there were many martinis, dessert, more drinks. In the end our table of five was shelling out $100 each to cover this escalating tab. Around 11:15 p.m., when the well-dressed and well paid crowd thinned, we saw a mouse scamper across the floor. Eek! A large building was being constructed across the street so to calm ourselves down we blamed the vermin on the infrastructure shakeup. It reminded me of a few months back when I saw a mouse darting under tables at an outdoor cafe on Newbury Street. I know where there is food, there are mice, but these vermin are more bothersome when they appear at an overpriced downtown venue. I expect them out back around a restaurant’s dumpster, but across the dining room floor? I'd still go back. Would you?

This time of year I feel like a naughty diabetic on holiday. Anything laced w/ sugar dances through my head. On custard, on cupcakes on donuts on blintzes! On a diet? That’s what January is for. Granted I don't want to scarf down a plate of snowflake sugar cookies in a solid sitting, I just want to look at them. Perusing the Dean & Deluca catalog last night was better than watching Dirt. Towers of delicately arranged candied fruits, exotic nuts and apricots rise like pyramids of pleasure. Turn the page and a kiddie's mirage of iced snowmen call out “eat me, you know I’m good.” Bells on bobtail ring when you come face to face w/ a three-layer, imported German chocolate dream cake or a buttery breakfast stolen. So Grinchly good.
Check out this cute bunch to the left. Too precious to eat, right? And you may not want to dunk them in your coffee w/ 16 going for $60. I’m no mathematician, but that’s close to $4 a pop. Save your mullah and indulge w/your eyes. Also on my holiday reading list, Harry David, Stonewall Kitchen and Chefs. Has anyone ordered Christmas cookies, cakes or breads via catalog w/ success?

It maybe November, but the harvest is still kickin. I am not prepared to give up my passion for pumpkin. This is the season of the pumpkin pie afterall. So I'm happy to report that Cotton cottonfood.com in Manch Vegas has pumpkin chili on the menu. Chef Jeff Paige gets points for creative hybridization. A spicy, meaty, pumpkin-y chili is just the thing to shake off the gales of November. Pumpkin pieces are slow-roasted and simmer w/ black beans, pork and tomato salsa. It's on special now in this millyard gourmet giant. Worth a trip north i'd say.
In other pumpkin news Gibbet Hill in Groton gibbethill.com is serving pumpkin brulee for Thanksgiving. Cancel your plans today and tell the whole famdamly your going out this year. This is one indulgence not to pass up. A creamy, hot, buttery, sugary pumpkin brulee sounds absolutely up my alley. What's your pumpkin pick this fall? Anyother menus still pumping?

Has anyone made their own wine? I had the opportunity to try some Portuguese wine made by a family in Tewksbury last weekend and it was fabu. And that’s not a word I use. It was late morning Sunday, too early to tipple, but for the sake of the story (see Sun food page today) I felt it my duty to imbibe. After one sip of this light garnet juice, my blood started pumping, my heart fluttered, and I’m sure my cheeks were flush. A hot flash? Much better. This was the best friggin’ wine I’ve had in 37 years — save that stretch in grammar school when I was off the sauce. They say wine is good for you, but I’ve never felt it, until now. There were no cloying sulfites to fight with, or palate-bruising attacks to the system. It was like coffee in a way, pure wake-up juice. This must be why wine is celebrated like water in the Bible.
Only rub? John Silva, the man who made it, reserves 250 gallons for family and friends. Come on John, share the wealth. You should sell some to Friends or Cavaleiros, the Portuguese restaurants in Lowell. The refreshing flavor pairs so well with cheese, bread, steak on stone ... you name it. If I had a yard and could grow grapes I would. It didn’t look that hard.

You can feel it in the air ...pumpkin coffee season. Sorry haze and French van., you take a backseat when September rolls around.
I scooped some Green Mountain p-spice at Hannies (yes I said Hannies) over the weekend and cut it with Equal Exchange’s mind, body, soul for a bitchen brew. What is it about this flavor that warms the cuckles of my heart? It is the embodiment of autumn. From the first squashy-nutmeg-y sip, I’m transported to the back roads of Vermont as the crimson sugar maple leaves fall around me. Ahhhh! I do not over-exaggerate, it’s that good. The flavor-happy Coffee Mill on Palmer Street in Lowell is offering p-spice now. And their’s is as good as Green Mountain. They pick random days to brew it, but it’s on tap as iced coffee right now! Several years ago I had great pumpkin ravioli at the Hancock Inn in N.H. I still remember the experience. Sily, smooth and fall-forward.
Anyone found any other great pumpkin stories?

Weekend plan was to get out of the Merrimack Valley and get some air. What we found instead was great beer and muscles. Is there a better combination on earth? Oh and killer ( I need to come up with a better adjective) bread! Hot and crusty from the oven (Atkins who?). We found all this nirvana in Northampton, foodie capital of the Pioneer Valley. Just outside of Springfield (D’oh) lies this fun food town. The restaurant scene is trendy, diverse and filled with enough finds to keep a South Ender satisfied for a few days. We first hit the dirty truth, a beer museum on Main Street with too many taps to count, high ceilings and red walls. A sucker for design, I instantly fell for the cool look so marked by single hanging light bulbs and a giant mirror fastened with turnbuckles. I had a Dogfishhead summer ale, which tasted like lemonade. SInce it was midday, it was a perfecet choice. Gourmet guy had a hearty dark Belgian which provoked a giant smile. The fries here were great. Thin and crisp, cooked to an ideal temp and perfectly salted, but the food is not really the draw. I kept looking across the street at Spoleto with the big yellow awnings and I got strong food vibes. Later, after an eight mile ride on the nearby bike path left us peckish, we hit Spoleto. And it was a good call. The bread that arrived came from Iggy’s in Watertown and that was the first tip we were in good hands. The second tip, was the bartender who really seemed to appreciate food. He complimented us on our choices between churns at the lime machine, where he made fresh squeezed margaritas. Our spinach salads was so tender, I thought the little leaves where picked that day. With gouda and cherries on top and a tangy dressing, what could have been better? The muscles were in a nice tangy, spicy sauce and we had stuffed grilled squid (points for being different.) Check it out next time you hit Noho at 50 Main St. What's you favorite food town?

Just got back from NYC and while I didn't have a weekend like Lindsay Lohan (see the frosting) I did indulge in some great food finds. First off is Tasty D-Light. The soft serve/lowfat ice cream populates the upper west, east and mid-town w/ good reason. It's a smooth frosty blend with amazing texture. Whenever I go I try to nab one. Hazelnut ice cream in cup = happiness. I also (it is summer after all) tucked into some great salads. What is it about Boston that makes us so green deficient? Local chefs don't seem to respect the salad like they do in New York. Arugala is the green of summer and one Italian hotspot Serafina (off Madison Ave,) tossed a killer versions w/ grape tomatoes and balsamic. Sounds basic, but there is magic in a perfectly executed salad. The cobb salad (the mother of all creations) at Le Pain Quotidien Bakery and Communal Table hit all the right spots too. Just the right amount of bacon ( not much) egg slices and yes arugala again commingled to refreshing perfection. Served w/ a plate of not one but two slices of crusty bread made this salad blogworthy. Check it out at www.lepainquotidien.com. Can anyone recommend a good local salad?

I've just returned from a culinary tour of Maine. Those Maniacs know a thing or two about true, natural ingredients. They say Portland is a foodie town, but the whole state is eating well. From Rayes Mustard factory in Eastport, to a tiny bakery in South West Harbor cranking out great nutty German bread, town after town boasts outrageous organic fare. Bread to beer, chocolate, to co-ops to coffee, Maine has it over Mass. I thought I was getting away to commune w/ nature and perhaps tackle a lobster or two, but great food kept getting in the way. The best store in New England has to be the Belfast Co-op. Located in the waterfront town that gets (happily) spared by tour buses in favor of Camden and Bar Harbor, this hippie-era shop where a membership is something like $60, has the best of everything. Cheese, organic wine, vats of DIY peanut butter, artisinal bread, and one hell of a beer section (museum is a better word) makes this supermarket a must stop. We always make a side trip when cruising down Coastal Route 1 to shop at Whole Foods w/o the aggressive pricing and condecention. But on this trip I found another great Co-op in Ellsworth, Me. Another cool town that gets passed by the tours. I'll get back to you on the name of the shop, but downstairs is a wine shop/art gallery and upstairs is a luscious trip of the best of Maine purveyors. Massachusetts need sto take Maine's lead. In order to shop local, we need to start producing local. Portland started a campaign two years ago, Keep Portland Local. All the shops have this sticker in the window. Coffee shops are roasting beans right there in the back, not being shipped in over state lines. It's tempting to move to Maine, but why not try to make more edible gems ourselves? Lowell needs a good bakery.

The Vietnamese. Sorry DD South East Asian restaurants make superior iced coffee. Haven't had it? I probably wouldn't have either, but every time I do a story on a Vietnamese restaurant, the owners always ply one on me. "Before you leave let me make you an iced coffee," they say with an air of pride. And since I never turn down free coffee (rule numeral uno), I always oblige. I think poynter would agree w/ me that journalistic ethics end at free coffee. The secret to this ultra refreshing drink? Each cup is brewed individually, poured over ice and condensed milk and brown sugar is added. The results are natural, pure and filled with the caffeine we know and love. Where to get in Lowell? Pho Dalat on Chelmsford and Middlesex streets does it v. nicely.

Gourmet Gal just returned from Kentucky and besides losing on my derby picks (thanks Paul Dailey) I also lost out on a weekend's worth of mangia. Food at Churchill Downs is exceptionally subpar. We don't know how good we have it at places like Fenway, or LeLacheur Park for that matter. The barbecue sandwiches they served were a mystery. Sliced pork or beef (both the same pale shade of grey) served on its lonesome on a white bun was lunch. Dinner was not much better. The jumbo dogs are nice and fat, but insipid, leaving us Yankees longing for a Fenway Frank. Because the only other option was popcorn and pretzels, the mint julep serves as the official derby grub. That's why everyone looks so happy in the crowd, they are looped. For $9 you get bourbon, sugar and mint on crushed ice. And it was refreshing. I stopped after one, not wanting to end up like No Biz in the back of the pack at the end of the race. But you don't go to the derby to eat, you go to people watch. You can feed your appetite on the crazy get-ups of the good ole boys in stripped suits and stingy brimmed hats and the women who are decked out like it was 1920. But since this is a food blog I will say the steak at the Maker's Mark Lounge on Fourth St. in Louisville was superb! As was the smoked salmon at The Brown Hotel. And the service is great. I found Kentuckians to be extremely polite. We did dine on the local staple KFC and, while I still feel a tinge of regret, it had to be done. Traveling gourmands have to remember their Street Sense and sample the local flavor when in Rome or Kentucky.

I found myself in Arlington (God's country) yesterday and made sure to visit the Chilly Cow. Cute name asside, this place serves up some extremely tasty custard. Being a New Englander I don't know much about ice cream's southern brother, but I know a good dessert when I taste one. And the creamy, firm texture of custard is just better than ice cream, spoons down. Closer to gelato in smoothness, custard is really what we all should be screaming for this summer. The Chilly Cow's hard-packed custard comes in vanilla, chocoalte and pistachio (my fav). You can find soft serve, I've heard, but I think the frozen tastes better. Don't know where else you can cop a custard, but I will let you know if I do.

Cinco de Mayo is a week away, it's time to start testing out the margaritas in our midst. La Hacienda and La Carreta in Nashua, N.H. are good places to start. There are two camps here. Some live for Carreta’s freshly prepared guac and homemade, lime-forward ritas. Others say Hacienda is the place for gringos to enjoy cheap no-frills drinks in a cheerful atmosphere. A recent upgrade has brought Hacienda into this decade. East of the border, the restaurant that started it all the Border Cafe has my vote. Order one at the Harvard Square institute and you will be feeling no pain. It's fun to toss one back with giddy Havard undergrads in mod tweeds. And don't forget the chips and salsa. A more perfect combination of drink and snack I know not of. And speaking of salsa I hear Norm's White Horse in Methuen on Route 110 has killer salsa. Ole!

Thin crust pizza. We all love it, but where to get it? I am a huge fan of Figs, the Todd English chain that features the thinnest, crispiest za around. Back when English was a wide-eyed fledging chef, he spent a lot of time in New Haven and discovered Pepe's. If you are a pizza fan lliving within the northeastern Uniteds and have never sunk your teeth into a pepe's pie, make plans now. In the city's Italian section, Pepe's sits like a shrine to great pies. They make a killer clam pie. But if you are not feeling adventurous and need it now (lately ive been pie-eyed) where to go? Cobblestones in Lowell makes flatbread pizzas (is this really thincrust?) Ricardo's used to make a good one, put they pulled it off the menu. Has anyone tried Barisano's on the Tyngs/Low line? The sign boasts thincrusts, but I remain skeptical.
In the frozen food dept. (not very gourmet I know) you can find some surprisingly stellar options. Amy's makes a pie w/ a crunchy cornmeal crust. The gritty texture of corn and tomato sauce sends me over the moon. For less buckage try Palermo pizzas. I buy a basic frozen thincrust (like spinach) and add sliced tomatoes, drizzle olive oil and spices when it comes out of the oven. The results are simply smashing.

Pomegranate is about to jump the shark. The spoiler? The acai berry.
This Brazilian fruit culled from the rain forests is purported to be the antioxidant to beat all antioxidants. Run a Google search on acai and the words “destroys cancer cells” is the first to pop up. Apparently this berry has been on Oprah ( but it prob. got lost on the couch causing us to miss it). So why am I the last to know about this? Seems the berry’s wonder properties, from anti-aging to great skin, are just becoming known in the North East. I encountered acai in drink form last week at Life Alive. Two healthy looking representatives from Monavie, a Utah-based company that makes the power drink, poured me a thimbleful and (no placebo effect here) I immediately perked up. They gave me a bottle (a stylish wine shape) to get started. My husband and I have had a shot each morning and night since last Wed. and in short we are hooked. It is not avail at Whole Foods, this is a network marketing company.You can only order it on-line ... More later when I find more Monavie.

I’m a coffee purist, I take it as black and dark as a Monday morning in February, but this has piqued my interest. Coffee cocktails. The brilliant baristas at the Java Room in Chelmsford are not wasting time with their new liquor license. Like you I tried (and now lament) espresso martinis. What a way to ruin the wholesomeness of ice coffee? But when you add Baileys, chocolate, hazelnut liquor and cream to your bean juice, all of a sudden unwinding with a drink is like apres ski in Stow, VT.— cozy and cool. With live jazz on Friday and Saturday and wines by the glass, Java Room owner Candy Lui is making some nice moves. She plans on turning this cafe into a wine bar at night. That means cheese plates and other trendy pm noshes could come soon if we support her. So let’s go. Located in Ginger Ale Plaza on Littleton Road.

I had the best Thai meal at Garlic Bistro in Chelmsford Thursday night. Location: Drum Hill Rotary. Now don' t be turned off by t