You know you're at the Montreal Jazz Fest when Joe Lovano stands next to you in the elevator. We had a few words w/ the jazz great, dressed in a hep black suit, a jazzman's tocque plus shades, and followed him to the jazz summit at Theatre Jean-Duceppe on Rue St. Catherine. He shared the stage w/ Ravi Coltrane (John's son) and Dave Liebman (all on sax) and an amazing old-time drummer named Billy Heart (Hart?). This guy must have been in his late-60s and played like a man possessed. We had nosebleed seats, but the sound is so sterling in this theater we felt smack-dab in the action. Of course all this sax grooving left us high, but peckish. We headed out of the crush of people (the crowd swelled considerably Fri. night) up Blvd. St. Laurent to find dins. The eclectic thoroughfare, which feels like parts of London and Alston, is infused w/ youthful energy from the many universities nearby.
After getting seated at Cafe Republic ( a low-key resto serving good French food) the blaring rap music was too much. We walked over to Cafeteria on the corner and the pink menus and $10 wines by the glass sent us out into the street once again.
No shame in leaving once seated if you are not happy. Right?
There were almost too many choices, but many of these open-windowed bistros reminded me too much of Sonsie. Pretension ran high. We settled for a comfy, collegy pub playing the Who, called Le Pistol. We ordered chix quesadilla served w/ mango, bruchetta and other oddly delightful sounding things. It came w/ a gourmet salad. We tucked into tasty pints of beers and relaxed.
Earlier in the day we traipsed the length of St. Cat and found great boulangeries and outdoor cafes. These crossiants from a bakery along the far end of St. Cat's were perfect.
Amherst Street offers quieter, more relaxed bistros and cafes like this one a hybrid of flowershop/ fondue rest. Lowell needs more of these multi-purposed shops. Didn't eat here, but fell for the concept and pretty hibiscus.
Today we are on the poutine trek, wish my cardiovascular luck!