An excited Billerica man left me a message over the weekend about North End steakhouse G’Vanni’s moving into the B-Ric. This Tuscan giant takes over the short-lived Indian Village on Boston Road. Menu leans on the classic side, which is what you’d expect to fly in this meat and pot. town. Chick and veal marsala, veal saltimbocca, cacciatore and hand-rolled ricotta gnocchi are the house hits. Was that my waistline expanding or yours? Wonder if they will downscale there prices when they go suburban. Not sure, outside of tech workers in for a power lunch, who will be forking over $39 for the delmonico bone-in rib eye. But steak eaters are used to the escalating price of beef. And G’Vanni’s takes this manly protein seriously. I’m on a meat fast, after bingeing last week, but as soon as I come to, the steak fiorentina, grilled sirloin layered over garlicky spinach, garlic reggiano sounds good to me.
www.gvannis.com