Stew. Just saying the word warms me up. The rainy, snowy weather that marked the first day of the year set me on a stew quest. After a bracing, okay insane, walk on a pelting beach in Beverly yesterday we pointed our car toward the center of town and Kitty O’Shea’s appeared like a beacon in the distance. “That’s it!” we cheered and dashed into the Irish pub like wet ghosts of New Year’s past. Out of chili and with no soup of the day on tap, we ordered two bowls of Guinness stew and nursed pints. Ahhhh! Arriving in bread bowls, the thick, dark stew was smoky, savory and made me forget my wet leggings and boots dripping under the table. As my glasses started to steam, I wondered “why have I never had this before?” It may be that I used to swear off meat and potatoes for fear of winter weight. But, my carb-loving man informed me “This is what you need in winter.” I felt so good after polishing this bowl, I just knew he was right. I’m on a quest to see where said stew can be found in the Lowell area. Any leads?

Bread, bountiful bread. So nourishing and wholesome. The milk of mandkind, you might say. Yesterday I spent a blissful hour in the Nashoba Brook Bakery in W. Concord, enveloped in the smell of the staff of life. I bought a whole wheat sourdough and a day-old rosemary sourdough (pic left). Now sometimes sourdough can be, well, sour. But this is perfectly tangy and the texture is soft on inside, crunchy outside. Textbook. It toasts up nicely too. Visit the tucked-away cafe if you can find it. Behind a large parking lot at the tip of Commonwealth Ave. Coffee is good too. A cup of Palermo goes nicely w/ a slice and the quiet nook overlooking the brook invites writing, surfing, reading or old fashioned zoning out.

Remember the plans, three years old by now, to open a rib shack in the space formerly occupied by Evos Arts Institute on Middle St. in Lowell? Well it's back on. Since the first of the year, a work crew has been inside the formidable, historic bldg. filling up dumpsters, looking at plans and clearing the space for rehab. A foreman told a source close to GG that the Village Smokehouse will open in early spring, April. This could be the shot in the arm the downtown needs to get it humming again. The owners whose Village Smokehouse in quaint Brookline Village has been an institution for several decades, will do this former textile storage hall justice. The Brookline spot has an open kitchen, bar w/ umpteen beers on tap, great ribs, pulled pork and chick sands. all tied up in a winning, laid-back atmosphere. Trust me this will be a dining destination.

Stay tuned to this blog for updates. I'm on the rib joint case!

We motored our mini to Manch Vegas yesterday hoping to catch some pres. candidates in action. With four days to go til the primary, the frontrunners were fanned out across the Granite State. Manch. was not hot w/ hopefuls. But we did notice an inordinate numb. of Irish Pubs, The Wild Rover, Murphy's, Millies, Shaskeen … one on every corner. For lunch we settled on the Red Arrow Diner, 61 Lowell St. off Elm.

I had heard about this 24-hour diner straight-from-central- casting for years now and was itching to try it. The klieg lights stationed in the snow outside the tiny boxcar, invited images of Obama opining over omelets inside. Thrusting through the narrow double doors … no Barack, Hil or Ed. Instead a foot-high layer cake on a chrome counter, hearty hash and pancakes as big as chargers on the eye-level grill changed our foucs fast. After listening to the bushy haired college kids at the Stop Global Warming hut, we were hungry.

Sitting at the raised Formica bar flanked by flannel-clad regulars, it felt work-a-day real. This isn't a diner trying to be a diner (hello Johnny Rockets) the Red Arrow IS a diner. And that's refreshing. If you like a big feed and kitschy waitresses this is your place. Myself, still bouncing back from a meat-forward holiday session, was not up for a full cholesterol binge. So I ordered a turkey club w/ coleslaw. While satisfying, real turkey and bread w/a good crunch, I over mayoed myself and wished I had said, "hold it." I swore off the stuff for 10 yrs. and anytime I spy a dollop I have to psyche myself up. Could have used a pickle to achieve the all-important moisture quotient.

Had I been in an egg or pancake place or even a slice-of-pie-and-bottomless-cupa-coffee mood, I probably would have fared better. Nevertheless its heart is in the right place and any diner devotee would be happy as a clam at high tide at the Red Arrow.

Things are looking up fellow foodies. Moonstones is on track in Chelms., we hear their bar is being installed today and Mr. Jalapeno, formerly Mike's Cafe on Merrimack St., appears ready to pop. I know our friends at the Mambo Grill across the way are less than pleased by this direct hit, and we can't say we blame them, but it is exciting to see new eateries opening downtown. Blue Taleh is on its way, by the end of the month at least, and to recap, the Village Smokehouse is not dead-in-the-water! And this is just the short list. By the spring Lowell will be shirking its reputation as gourmet wasteland and stepping up to destination status. Any other spots I missed? Anyone feelin' the food love?

Has anyone been to the sparkling new Whole Foods in Andover? Formerly Wild Oats, this large grocer off the town center, recently transformed into the organics megastore. I went in reluctantly (for fear of loosing every last dime in my wallet) the other day just to get some fish. Right.

Only a fool would think you could exit WF w/ just one item. This place is so seductive. A color wheel of produce stacked like an ICA installation (carrots can do that?) delights the eye. Crusty, wheaty, nutty breads call out to you from wooden bins. And the cheese aisle? Ah, the fromage. A small slice of emmenthaler is $15 and perfect, organic, rosemary wheat crackers, $8. But at least I look good under the soft lighting and the squeeky wheels a la Market Basket are not killing my nerves. What's that, a potted fern? Lovely.

At first you’ll think it’s the same store, but walk on and a neat, well-designed array of top-of-the line organics snake out before you. I swear I felt healthier just walking through this place. The layout is more focused; the area that sells vitamins, oils, etc. is like a shop w/in a shop. Organic toiletpaper? Why not.

I was feeling great until I reached the far end of the room and realized something was terribly off. No more wine! The holistic mafia decided to do away w/ the great wines and imported beers that made WO a big draw. The guy at the fish counter gave me the rote response: no license avail for all stores. Bummer. The wine selection here was as good as Andover Liquors down the street, but better for the convenience. However, the tilapia was the best I’ve had! If it wasn't swimming that morning I'd be mighty surprised.
Has anyone taken a spin through?

Want a cheap lunch? Think there’s no such thing? I just got a tip about a guy named Tony from Mill City Catering. He whips together hot, tasty lunches on his truck that zips through Western Avenue Studios at noon each weekday. Artists tell me the food is nothing to balk off. Historically penniless, the members of our creative economy are living large on chicken Parmesan on Wed., burgers, pasta and token sandwiches, plus chips and drink for under $5. That’s right folks, don’t adjust your screens, I said “under $5.” What’s so gourmet about a contractor’s lunch? Nothing. But w/ the economy in the chopper, we could all use a break. Plus this is 5 min. from where I work.
Note: Tony doesn’t linger. He’s in and out in 10 minutes, so don’t delay! That’s 122 Western Ave., Lowell. Has anyone had a worthy truck lunch? Would you consider these lowbrow meals on wheels?

Enough banter on truck lunches. I had one of the better meals of my life last night at Summer Winter. The new rest. in the Burlington Marriott is so perfect, so divine there really is no need to schlepp into Boston for greater culinary artistry. The warm, low-lit venue by Mark & Clark, the team that put Ogunquit on the dining map w/Arrows, serves a simple menu that reflects the seasons and changing tides. We ordered cockle clams to start and the attentive (and I might add cute) bartender told us they'd been 86'd. Reason: They are Florida-caught and w/ the screwy weather down south they arrived small and sub-par. “So we sent them back,” he said. Nuff said.
We went w/ Clark’s crab cakes w/ remoulade and cole slaw ... Wow ... Nirvana is not just a plaid-wearing band from the ’90s people. These sublime morsels were all fish with a light dusting of crumbs, browned to Gordon Ramsay-perfection. The chef, whom we met later, is no Ramsay. He was so pleased that we liked our array of apps., he made us feel like the stars.
The clams that did arrive where steaming hot in a bucket of flavorful broth. “Forget spoons, they should serve this with a straw,” gourmet gay said. Presentation in this seasonal-spot is another delight. The starters from the bar menu arrive in a wooden box, making sharing neat and fun. Just slide the box down to your companion and slide it back. I’d lose my food blogging license if I didn’t mention the pita chips. Tasted like gourmet fried dough, if you can imagine that. Delight is not just a one-hit hip-hop wonder, fellow foodies. Has anyone visited Summer Winter? You’ll walk out as pleased as the Viva Viagra couple, I swear. Price points: Not bad at all. A kobe beef burger was $19. I've seen this rarified yup eat for $30 in beantown bistros. Did I mention the cold Ipswitch ale on tap? Really, there is no payola going on here, the temp. was optimal.
summerwinterrestaurant.com

Before heading to the Big Razor last weekend I stopped into Meat Again on Boston Road in Billerica. What a shop. Who knew such succulent cuts of meat were to be had in this hectic strip mall zone? I guess many of you, as owner Dan O'Brien tells me he's been open for 27 years.
This carnivore convert was lost in a maze of meat, clearly out of my element among links and chops and other assorted red slabs. I needed ribs and O’Brien recommended a large pack and told me exactly how to be grill queen at the game. Cook in the oven for two hours at 200 on a cookie sheet, meat side up. Transport on ice in plastic bags to tailgate. Slap on the grill for 10 min. each side, brushing on the bbq sauce at will. OMG! It was fall-off-the bone fabulous. I had to fight off the die-hard grill junkies asking me "How'd ya do it?"
I owe it all to Dan O and his brilliant butchery. It's nice to have a meat man you can trust. He even gave me the bags for transport. They have a deli w/ pulled pork and bbq turkey club melt sandwiches too. There's a Meat Again in Westford, but the Billerica shop's got game. Has anyone caught this meat buzz? What's your favorite meat market?

Coffee and a cheeseburger eggroll. Excuse me?
Sounds like a cardiologist’s dream. But this crazy combo is my new fav. guilty pleasure. Foisted upon me by chef Michael Kit and Sengly at the Eggroll Cafe yest., this unlikely two-fer had me smiling all the way out into the snow-banked sidewalks and back into my place of employment. Not bad for an idle Tues. in Jan. Maybe I needed the protein. After the first crispy crunch, the eggroll exploded with juicy burger and warm, comforting cheese. This was far from any burger i’ve bitten. Because this morsel is deep-fried in canola, the temp and text. was so right. I love a meal that contains heat and flavor, but mostly heat. And this roll was piping.
Someone cracked "that's a deep fried burger, no wonder it was good."
But it certainly doesn't taste that grotesque. It's an innocent eggroll.
What also works is the size, compact. Who hasn't been out in mixed company, dying for a burger, but worried about fitting a large, packed bun into your mouth? Here come these dainty rolls to the rescue. The neat, Cambodian-style is small and not doughy.
The Illy coffee is good here too, strong and a nice accompaniment to these rolls.
Kit tells me the Eggroll Cafe on University Ave. is a test location. Owners, who live in Japan, may eventually open more near college campuses. Yum! Want to learn to roll your own? Check out my signature dish col. in next wed.'s sun.
eggrollcafe.com

The front door might still be cracked from the last proprietor who skipped town in the middle of the night, but Mr. Jalapeno is poised to open by the end to the month. Owner Ricardo Cantilino gave me a quick rundown on the latest Mexican cantina to pop up on Merrimack Street in Lowell. First the good news: they are making their own tortillas. The brother and sister operation have purchased a maker from Mexico. Not sure if this will make a difference. Can anyone weigh in on this? The fresher the better I suppose. Mole and bbq dishes and spices from Mexico are what he is most proud of. Coffee will be organic Mexican altura, which my coffee snob friend tells me is right up there w/ Kona. So I say ole! Bad news: no margaritas as promised in my last Jalapeno post. But Ricardo tells me he is still going for a liquor license, it will just take time. Manana, manana! Look for Mr. J to open by WinterFest.

Just returned from a trip to North Country and the skiing and eating was incredible. We spent the weekend XC skiing in Jackson, N.H. What an ideal snowcapped-village. Enter through a covered bridge, strap on your skis and you're traversing the White Mountain National Forrest within minutes. As you glide by rivers, pines and birches you get hungry. This activity burns 500 calories an hour I’m told. So after five, we were ready. Our first stop was the Wentworth Inn for an après fondue.

This turn-of the century inn serves up an old-fashioned fondue in a cozy piano bar lounge with three Swiss cheeses, chardonnay and a splash of liqueur. Arriving w/ cubes of sourdough bread for dipping, it was rich, gooey, warm and satisfying. We were like a pair of Swiss ski bunnies plunging our long forks into the warm red ceramic pot w/glee. Later, many hours later, we hit the Thompson House Eatery upon recommendation of the inn’s friendly bartender Tony. Gallivanting gourmets know to ask locals for dining recommendations. We never would have hit this low-key, rustic romantic spot if not for asking.

After a bit of a wait, (this barn-turned bistro gets slammed) we dined on the best salad of ours lives. The Savannah salad with succulent steak was served on a luscious bed of greens, with currants, Gorgonzola, caramelized onions, tomatoes and other great things I can't remember. I was in bliss and soon ready for slumber.

Brunch the next day was at the Eagle Mountain House. From poached salmon, to omelets made-to-order, to a carving station, to strawberry shortcake, this inn (even older than the Wentworth) delivers with sweeping views of Carter Notch. You can strap on your skis outside the door here too. But it was cold and we were full.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, on the way there we stopped at Hart's Turkey Farm in Meredeth, N.H. for a thanksgiving dinner! This old-school eatery in the heart of the Lakes Region serves up turkey 15 ways. We went for the basic dinner, stuffing, squash, turkey, mashed smothered in gravy. Good coffee too. Absolutely worth the stop.

By the time you read this, the doors to the Blue Taleh could be wide open. The Thai/sushi rest. we’ve all been waiting for, is staying true to its projections and is opening Thurs. or Fri. I’ll know for sure tom., but then again so will you.
Word is the sushi will be top notch (sorry Etsogo). Chef Mike comes from famed Rock ’n’ Roll sushi on Boylston Street, a Boston restaurant that has the distinction of introducing me to my first maki roll/green tea combo. Chef Mike (don’t know his last name, hey this is a blog) has the distinction of being Sal Dimasi’s favorite chef. Does this mean House speaker will be chilling in Kearney Sq? Stay tuned.
In other noshnews, Fishbones, our favorite Chelmsford hang, will be breaking through into Classic Decorating Interiors next door to make way for a full-fledged bar! Won’t have the specs. for a few weeks, but this came from inside the fish house, so I would bet the fish farm. This Central Square hot spot has been dishing out Mediterranean platters, great tuna tartar and you name it. Too bad this is in such a hectic area. But they have a large parking lot in rear.

Pat's linebacker Larry Izzo was seen noshing on a spiritual meal yesterday in DTL at Life Alive no less. Seems our special teams titian fuels up on plant-based meals. There with his attractive wife, Izzo struck a low-profile, but he was wearing an old-school Pat the Patriot hat. Cool. Who knew he was powered by Goddess, flax and amino acids? Turns out the athlete makes the trip to Millville frequently for this healthy fare. Looks like he's slimmed down a bit too. See the Sun Sat. for an inside line on Izzo's organics.
Could Brady be seen sipping a smoothie at the Middle Street cafe next? How about Moss in the mill? Which Pat would you most like to see kicking down the cobblestones?

Since the hotdog cart closed two years ago on Central Street, we have been dog deficient in DTL. No longer. Hip, gourmet frank shack Bad Dawgs is opening in the former site of Mossie's on Merrimack Street. What a nice turn-of-events. This franchise founded by a Northeastern grad, is infiltrating college towns in NE. There's one in Plymouth and Keene, N.H. The Web site says UMass Lowell is next, but it appears downtown won out. Looks like it's truly a dog-only shop w/ umpteen toppings. They've got sauerkraut, blue cheese, chopped celery and hot sauce. Don't know yet when this dog rolls out, but we can only hope by spring. Anyone dug the dawg?
baddawgs.com

Pining for gelato last night we headed out to Cafe Paradiso on the corner of Palmer and Middle. Mistake numb. 1. The brightly hued avalanches of sweet cream looked fine under the glass, even appealing, but once we got our $5 scoops home and dipped in an oar, it turned gummy. Yes, gum in my spoon. Notes of freezer burn, not blueberry, strawberry or hazelnut, attacked our palates. We thought of going back for a refund, but it was late, cold and there was no guarantee we would see our greenbacks again.
I know I’m not alone when I say, “what a disappointment this place has turned out to be.” When it first opened I was as excited as the next bub that a North End-quality cafe was settling in. But this place would never survive in an real Italian zone. High priced tinis, lousy service and what feels like a chip on the shoulders of the staff = bad times. Has anyone had a good time here? Prove me wrong and I may try it again.
For real gelato try Susan's European Cafe in Hudson, N.H.. We snagged eggnog gelato up there around the holidays and it stole the dessert course. Creamy, smooth, made on the premises.

We found ourselves in Lowell's scrappy sister city yest. and leave it to GG to sniff out a winner. Two winners actually. First stop, the Rose & Dove Gourmet, roseanddove.com Hidden in the KGR bldg. on canal street, is a fun, if frilly wine/gift shop. Lots of lace and finery, but still a nice, focused selection of wine and an owner willing to uncork a bottle just for us to taste. That's the kind of service you won't get at Conlons. It was a Washington white which didn't leave me swooning, so we went w/ a South African chard. On the owner's recommendation we walked to Salvatore's around the corner. Around the corner in this behemoth industrial zone is like a block in Berlin — large, gaping, and on a night like this, frostily wind-swept. When we finally landed inside Salvatore's along w/ half of Lawrence, we were more-than-ready to partake. We sat at the bar and dined on clams casino. I remember my fathering ordering this meal and this was nothing like the grilled, slightly breaded clams he savored. But it was hot, we were cold and a jazz trio was setting up behind us. There were no complaints. (except, what happened to the rest of the order? there where only three clams.)
Next came fried calamari served w/ zesty tom. sauce on an ample bed o'greens, these rings were right on. They are known for their riceballs, pic above, which sounded tempting, but I've been doing the carbo load lately. The cab. by the glass was so tasty, I inquired about the label. Jekyll 2005. voluptuous. Stay away from the high-priced, insipid chianti by the glass. $9 for that? pu-lese. Ambiance is a 9 here. Soft, low lights, candles and high/low ceiling divide make for pleasing acoustics. With three TV-s in exactly the right spots there is a reason this is the king daddy of the Sal's pizza chain.
salvatoreslawrence.com

What's up w/ local restaurants canceling their brunches at a time when we need it the most? It’s almost February. If we venture outside at all on a dark, cold Sunday there better be troths of coffee and pretty looking eggs bene waiting. Complimentary mimosas? Yes please. Centro 86'd its Sunday brunch two weeks ago and the Old Court hasn't had its banger and mash bash since last winter. How is a blogger supposed to nurse a hangover in this town? The b-marys at the OC were second to none, and the brown bread primo. If one wants to grab a weekend morning bite-out we are stuck w/ old school lunch counters like Vic’s in Centralville (a drip and muffin joint). I hear Owen and Ollies in D-cut has a Sun. brunch has anyone been? Too bad the doubletree is so benighted, hotels usually roll out the best spreads. What's wrong w/ Cobblestones? This centrally located spot is ground zero for a carvining station. The Left Bank may be the best bet around. Cinamon brioches, cobb salad in a cool, luxe atmos. Has anyone been? Know of a good place?

As part of N.H.'s wine week the son of Robert Mondavi is at Michael Tim's tonight. The winemaker will be behind the bar from 5 till 9p. Cool, hey wine heads? This swank eatery’s weekly wine series features a flight — three 2 ounces of wines red or white, paired w/roasted haddock, ital. mini prosciutto pizza./rav. Got a que. for this wine guru? Bring it. Pretty big doings up north all week. The Brookstone Grille in Derry has a nice wine dinner w/ Dynamite wine on friday, just got the menu: Lemon grass poached shrimp on pita toast with mango chutney, sweet & spicy slaw w/ sauv blanc,
Apps: Walnut crusted brie cheese served over vanilla roasted apples and chard from Mendocino County and more for $65. Grape guru will be in the house. Seems 30 wine heroes have descended on the granite this week. For more see Step Out on Thurs. See you w/ Mondavi tonight!