I took a culinary drive by Burlington yest. and I'm happy to report the news is um, um good. The old mall and chain is being usurped by serious restauranteurs. We're talking Tuscan wood-grilled ribeye, blue cheese soup and lobster BLTs. Was that my stomach, or yours?

My first stop was L'Andana on 3A (pix left). If you haven't heard of Jammie Mammano's newsest hotspot, you will. He of Mistral, Mooo, Sorellina and Teatro fame has taken his midas touch to Burlington. Chef-partner Robert Jean (Lowell homeboy) is overseeing the show at L'Andana. Jean, a jolly elf, appears tickled to be offering such tasty vittles to suburbanites. "Real Tuscan food." That translates to no fru-fru. At the helm in the kitchen is David Blessing (formerly of Silks at the Stonehedge Inn and The Four Seasons). His veal chops served w/ sweet polenta and chesutnut maple butter sounds heavenly as does the wood-roasted swordfish w/ roasted peppers, charred onions olives and chives. Now the decor: Mesquite floors, soaring ceiling and farm wood walls. Rustic chic. landanagrill.com

Over at the Marriot's new Summer Winter, chefs Clark Fraiser and Mark Gaier (of Arrows in Ogunquit) bring their earth- forward Mainely New England meals to the former site of Allies.Talk about an upgrade. They open on Thurs. The opening party was last night and GG was there. Burlington pols., opinion leaders and ladies who don't lunch were slurping down cerviche scallops and rosemary martinis w/ glee. Hey it's about time Burlingtonians get more than pub fries. With a greenhouse in the back, raw bar and 150 wines on tap, Summer Winer is right in time. Look for a full report in next Thursday's Steppin' Out.