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November 2007 Archives

November 2, 2007

Burlington goes pop!

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I took a culinary drive by Burlington yest. and I'm happy to report the news is um, um good. The old mall and chain is being usurped by serious restauranteurs. We're talking Tuscan wood-grilled ribeye, blue cheese soup and lobster BLTs. Was that my stomach, or yours?

My first stop was L'Andana on 3A (pix left). If you haven't heard of Jammie Mammano's newsest hotspot, you will. He of Mistral, Mooo, Sorellina and Teatro fame has taken his midas touch to Burlington. Chef-partner Robert Jean (Lowell homeboy) is overseeing the show at L'Andana. Jean, a jolly elf, appears tickled to be offering such tasty vittles to suburbanites. "Real Tuscan food." That translates to no fru-fru. At the helm in the kitchen is David Blessing (formerly of Silks at the Stonehedge Inn and The Four Seasons). His veal chops served w/ sweet polenta and chesutnut maple butter sounds heavenly as does the wood-roasted swordfish w/ roasted peppers, charred onions olives and chives. Now the decor: Mesquite floors, soaring ceiling and farm wood walls. Rustic chic. landanagrill.com
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Over at the Marriot's new Summer Winter, chefs Clark Fraiser and Mark Gaier (of Arrows in Ogunquit) bring their earth- forward Mainely New England meals to the former site of Allies.Talk about an upgrade. They open on Thurs. The opening party was last night and GG was there. Burlington pols., opinion leaders and ladies who don't lunch were slurping down cerviche scallops and rosemary martinis w/ glee. Hey it's about time Burlingtonians get more than pub fries. With a greenhouse in the back, raw bar and 150 wines on tap, Summer Winer is right in time. Look for a full report in next Thursday's Steppin' Out.

November 5, 2007

Pump it up

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It maybe November, but the harvest is still kickin. I am not prepared to give up my passion for pumpkin. This is the season of the pumpkin pie afterall. So I'm happy to report that Cotton cottonfood.com in Manch Vegas has pumpkin chili on the menu. Chef Jeff Paige gets points for creative hybridization. A spicy, meaty, pumpkin-y chili is just the thing to shake off the gales of November. Pumpkin pieces are slow-roasted and simmer w/ black beans, pork and tomato salsa. It's on special now in this millyard gourmet giant. Worth a trip north i'd say.
In other pumpkin news Gibbet Hill in Groton gibbethill.com is serving pumpkin brulee for Thanksgiving. Cancel your plans today and tell the whole famdamly your going out this year. This is one indulgence not to pass up. A creamy, hot, buttery, sugary pumpkin brulee sounds absolutely up my alley. What's your pumpkin pick this fall? Anyother menus still pumping?

November 7, 2007

English lessons

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I've long been a fan of Todd English. Olive's changed the dining scene in Boston and the thin-crust pizza's at figs change my life (until figs started closing everywhere). So when we exited the Celtic's game the other night w/ grumbling stomachs we headed to Kingfish Hall. What a mistake.

It was Friday night after 10:30 p.m. and Faneuil Hall was buzzing. Was the kitchen closed? We never did find out. We sat at a bistro table downstairs giving hungry looks to the wait staff who skillfully ignored us. The brown-shirted crew broke down the raw bar, loudly settled credit card disputes and huddled in the eves begging us to leave. After 15 mins. we did w/ a bad taste in our mouths and lighter wallets (unexpected upside). Today I read that English is opening in Logan Airport, hope the staff is more attentive or flights will be missed.
It's the classic case of booming too fast. English really needs to slow down and concentrate on what he started or an English production will feel like a Kenny Rogers chain — gone and happily forgotten. Tell me I'm being too harsh. Has anyone had a positive evening w/English lately?

November 9, 2007

Crazy for chicken?

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Or pining for crazy chicken.
El Pollo Loco, Spanish for “The Crazy Chicken," opened in Tewks. this week. This is the first East Coast rest. for the Mexican chain which opened in 1975.
Calling themselves "quick-service" (fast food) PL sounds head and shoulders above Taco Bell. Flame-grilled chicken (which actually looks real), is marinated in citrus juice and come w/ warm tortillas. I haven't been, but our intern and photo chief gave strong reports. Okay, she felt a little queasy and went home early, but blamed it on eating too much.

The menu pulls few punches, burritos, salads, tacos and quesadillas, but the salsa bar could have promise — avocado, chipotle and pico de gallo salsas. Ummm. Do we like salsa bars, or are they dangerous?
Popular in California, Arizona, Nevada, PL tries to be health conscious. Has anyone been to one of the 300 PL's out West? The roll-out plan includes saturating the region making this is one f-ed up chicken that will not go away. The Tewks. spot is next to Walmart on Route 38.

Sleigh bells ring

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As sure as the first snowfall signals the arrival of the holidays, Chirstmas Blend hit the barrista bar at Starbucks yesterday. I just popped into the Chelms. Bucks (quite possibly the worst-sighted Starbucks this side of Pike Place) and I entered a sea of X-Mas blend. I find it refreshing that this international co. still uses the world CHRISTMAS to describe a mass-consumed product! Good for you Howard Schultz. The coffee, earthy and strong, pairs nicely w/ Christmas cookies too. Sure, I lament the arrival of all things jolly before Thanksgiving like the next practical Yankee, but w/ an innocuous drink like coffee, exceptions abound.
They're rolling out the seasonal fru-fru drinks like peppermint lattes too. but there's nothing quite like this blend. And the red cups, ah the red cups. So damn festive!

November 13, 2007

Fortunato's Misfortune

Can you eat great at a neighborhood bistro? The answer of course should be yes. So what happened to Fortunato’s? Located at the apex of Palmer and Middle streets in swinging DTL, the spot is prime, even when the sidewalk cafe rolls up. Especially when the sidewalk cafe rolls up. In the 10 years its been open, the food has been up and down as frequently as the stock market. The new owners have made some positive changes to the interior, the bar area is nicer, but the food? The jury is still out.

We went Friday night to watch the Celtic’s game. The Chianti by the glass was an insult to all Italians. Was it water w/ heavy dye? The bartender graciously let me trade up for a glass w/ some chutzpah. When the lobster ravioli arrived, I immediately regretted by order. I had to go on a fishing expedition to rescue the pillows of lobsters swimming in the cream. When I did, it was worth it. Sort of. Tasted like lobster, but the meat was not plentiful enough to determine if it was indeed lobster meat. Gourmet guy ordered Mediterranean chicken on my behest remembering this as their signature dish. He didn’t say much, which means nothing to blog about. They are making efforts to up the ante (bread arrives with dipping oil). But the bread was a white, denuded affront to all breads. Would it kill them to find a real baguette?

Okay, we are a second-tier city, but still we should demand more from our restaurants. Fortunato’s would never last in Boston. It might not last in Lowell. We were one of three couples at the bar at 8 p.m. on a Friday. Why are they not drawing crowds? We have sophisticated palates. Cater to us.

November 15, 2007

Lexington's got sauce

pizza.jpg Tooling round Lexington last night, I spied quite a few new dining hot spots springing up. Most notable: Upper Crust on Waltham Street (across from Vinny T's). Whose been? GG has not (sadly it was closed) but it looks great. Nice wood design, full bar, flat screen and high tables. Designery indeed. When did take-out joints class up? Next time you're in Harvard Sq. check out Flat Patties in The Garage — sleek and cheap. But Back to Upper Crust. They first opened on Charles Street in 2001 to give figs a little competition. Now (unlike figs) they are moving out to the burbs. Good news for Lowell denizens, a trip to Lex is 20 min.
From what I hear, the crust is thin and the toppings are portabella, fresh basil, chorizo, Canadian bacon, and you can pick your cheese- choose from blu, feta, gorgonzola, asiagio and ricotta. Also wines by the glass are $6-$7. theuppercrust.com
Nextdoor an Asian rest. is opening and the great gourmet ice cream parlor Rancatore's is at the top of the street. Parking is plentiful too. I don't know about you, but the next time a craving for new nosh hits (like tonight) Im wheeling my mini to the 781.

November 20, 2007

Let the burrito wars begin

f you like Mexican food, you're going to love this post.
Remember Mike's Café, that fairly seedy lunch place w/ a mid-east bent on Merrimack St.? Well hold onto your chalupas spice fans and meet Senior Jalapeno. Ricardo Candiani, of Billerica by way of Mexico, is set to open a Mexican restaurant in this space by Christmas. He let us in his shop last night as he was painting and laying tile and the vibe was warm and promising. His plan is to offer authentic Mexican food, burritos yes, but also chicken w/ mole sauce and all kinds of dishes
he grew up eating in the hood. Added Perk: coffee from Guatemala and other Central American regions will occupy a corner up front next to a salsa bar. Right across the street from the Mambo Grill, Senior Jalapeno maybe looking for a burrito war. But taco shops have tried to thrive on this street before (remember the short lived outfit a block east?) so who knows how this will shake out. It's not a zero sum game and burritos are the new coffee — there's a shop on every corner in most bastions of youthful hipness. (See Harvard Sq.). I think there's enough pico de gallo to go around. As always GG will keep you posted on Senior Jalapeno’s progress. Okay, I admit it, I love that name!