Gastro pubs. They 're so bloody English. And so bloody good. We need more of these taverns dishing out bistro-quality meals. No crisps or dirty water dogs at The Garden At The Cellar. I popped into this low-key establishment, on Mass. Ave. just outside Harvard Square, last week and the place was slamming. Chef/ Owner Will Gilson, who grew up in Groton, took over the space a year ago, and has amassed a sturdy following. Lucky are the Harvard students w/ expense accounts. Local (is anyone tired of this trend yet?) is the focus and the prices ( all-natural chichen breast $17) are reasonable. What I love about gastro pub galavanting is sitting at the bar and sharing. We split chix croquettes and cod cakes, the latter was the superior of the two. Lots of fresh white fish perfectly quick fried, (or baked?) into mega munchkins. Light and crisp w/ warm fish inside. The sautéed spinach from a Deerfield Farm was probably the best sidedish I've met. Filled with garlic and cooked to a brilliant green- not over cooked! The squash salad w/ apple bacon and farm cheese was too deconstructed for my tastes. Call me a rigid purist, but a salad should be a salad, not a stacked snack. Still The Garden at The Cellar is always a good time. Gilson, a 25 year-old cutie, comes out and delivers the meal personally, retelling exactly how far your greens traveled to get there. I traveled 25 miles. How far would you go for a great meal?