Following the Mohawk Trail (aka Route 2) to the Berkshires is a lovely way to get your autumn kicks. The colorful leaves awaken your cornea w/ their sweet, sweet candy. But leaf-peeping is not for the empty of stomach. A day-tripper needs sustenance. So after a recent ramble through Mohawk-Mohegan Trail outside Shelburne Falls, we found great eats in the cute-as-a-button village. The Tusk N Rattle, a subterranean fusion restaurant, formerly a lounge, strikes the right balance of cheer and cool. Once you descend the stairs into the colorful small space, you know you’re going to like it here.
A basket of chips and bean dip arrives as we sit down at the bar. Watching the margaritas being made (with just squeezed limes) a teetotaler would give in. We start with the soup of the day, a smoky, creamy broth studded with scallops, and sherry perhaps? It was richly divine. The Tusk looks and feels like a Mexican cafe, but I found out later it’s Indian and Latin. That explains the colorful Spanish shrimp dish I ordered. This spicy, pan-roasted affair with tomatillos, leeks and garlic in extra virgin olive oil, was made complete with tostones. That’s what did it for me, the tostones. Turns out they are pan-fried savory green plantains served with chimichurri sauce. Kind of like fried green tomatoes — a welcome stand-in for rice or potatoes. Gourmet Guy ordered the chicken quesadillas. Only misfire was the flour tortilla. Why do restaurants do this when corn is so much tastier and healthier? Spreading good energy around the cafe, owner Yanina Vargas makes you feel great. The bubbly Puerto Rico native, and former academic, is having a good time since taking the spot over a year ago and doing it right. tusknrattle.com

Has anyone made their own wine? I had the opportunity to try some Portuguese wine made by a family in Tewksbury last weekend and it was fabu. And that’s not a word I use. It was late morning Sunday, too early to tipple, but for the sake of the story (see Sun food page today) I felt it my duty to imbibe. After one sip of this light garnet juice, my blood started pumping, my heart fluttered, and I’m sure my cheeks were flush. A hot flash? Much better. This was the best friggin’ wine I’ve had in 37 years — save that stretch in grammar school when I was off the sauce. They say wine is good for you, but I’ve never felt it, until now. There were no cloying sulfites to fight with, or palate-bruising attacks to the system. It was like coffee in a way, pure wake-up juice. This must be why wine is celebrated like water in the Bible.
Only rub? John Silva, the man who made it, reserves 250 gallons for family and friends. Come on John, share the wealth. You should sell some to Friends or Cavaleiros, the Portuguese restaurants in Lowell. The refreshing flavor pairs so well with cheese, bread, steak on stone ... you name it. If I had a yard and could grow grapes I would. It didn’t look that hard.

Went to Etsogo in dt Lowell last night and I’m still feeling the love. Sat at the sushi bar (love that) and ordered yellow tail and salmon sashimi because it looked so fresh — and the chef told us to. He was right on. There was nothing fishy about these sparkly, clean cuts of fresh fish. The ginger was also perfectly strident and plentiful. A sucker for fancy rolls, I ordered the Green Dragon — a beautiful display of eel and cucumber topped with avocado, masago and a slightly too sweet sauce. But the star of the night was the Out of Control Roll. This powerhouse of tuna, salmon, yellowtail, cukes, avocado wrapped in seaweed packed the protein and taste.
Tuna and cucumbers rolls on the side were good palate cleansers. The green tea was warming, but I’m not sure it was green. Tasted barley heavy. They were out of Kirkun beer, so Sapporo had to do for gourmet guy. Decor is nothing to blog about, but when the sushi is this fresh I'll do w/o the fru fru. Also BIG BONUS: the tab came to $37 smacks. Unheard of for a decent sushi feed.
Weird, we were the only ones there the whole time. Maybe Lowell is dead mid-week I thought as I turned the corner to Market Street on our way home. But Centro was abuzz!? Fellow foddies, we must support Etsogo or, like the last three places to open here, they will be a flash in the pan. 16 Merrimack St., 978-323-7878. Delivery too.

"Eat your words" If that's on the menu at Joe Fish in N.Andover you can believe it will be a mouth watering experience you won't soon forget. My story starts 4 years ago, back to dating after being married for 25 years, Nervous and excited at the time. My date also same situation dating after 25 years. Joe fish was a first for both. So the night begins with a very nice smiling hostess, as you look around its an inviting atomosphere, lots to catch your eye; In no time our server was at our table. (Even though it was busy) Wanting to try one of there many special drinks, our server had recommended the drink of the day. Nothing less than wow. So we decided to go with his recommendation for our meal. We started with an array of oysters from all over the world (neither one of us had ever had oysters before), followed by garlic mussel appetizer, "Totally awesome". The oysters were fresh with a snappy cocktail, horseradish sauce and a splash of lemon and down they went. The mussels dripping in broth of garlic, scallions, and tomato. The best is the only way to describe them. Second drink, a house special martini. Special is the word. Smooth, light and just fruity enough. Now the main course I enjoyed the shrimp scampi. My date had the tuna special. (we shared) The scampi was just the perfect blend of garlic, scallion broth and other tasty ingredients. So fresh, you could almost hear the shrimp boat. Not the tuna, myself never having tuna steak before I was very excited to try it especially when I say it was superb. When I say it was comparable to the best filet mignon you have ever tasted its just the truth in fact my mouth is watering just thinking about it. With no room for desert, that was the perfect excuse to return in the future. Which we have many times since and we have yet to get the desert. And yes my date 4 years ago is still the man and our favorite place you got it Joe Fish. The food however is only part of the overall experience. The service makes this restaurant a complete most enjoyable dining delight. Leaving you looking forward to the next visit. Guess what! We highly recommend Joe Fish Enjoy! http://www.joefish.net/

Sincerely Barbie & Steve

Are you like me? Do you love all things squash and pumpkin this time of year?
I discovered a good way to make a quick acorn squash dish. Cut said vegetable in half and, place in pan w/ some water. Stick in the oven at 425 and go for a run. When you get back, take it out and you've got yourself a great start to an autumn meal. Stir-fry pork or chicken w/ onions, mush., celery, whatever you have in the fridge w/ cubed bread and simply scoop into squash halves. The bread (use a dark rye or pump) becomes stuffing. Squash is smooth, silky and no butter or b.sugar is used. It bakes in its nat. juices. This dish is filling, nutritious and quite pretty. Hell, you could even do turkey for a twist at Thanksgiving.

We hear a Lowell Restaurant Week is being bandied. Like Boston's successful week of prefix dining, Lowell’s would feature discounts at the smashing establishments we have here for one blissful week of eating out. Boston's has become so successful most places sell out quickly and it turned biannual. The Left Bank in Tyngs. has long been a participant, but few people make the trek out to the boro when they can dish at Davios. By having a LRW, all the great spots outside Lowell —Gibbet Hill in Groton, Burtons in North Andover, Infusions Bistro in Chelms.— can glom on. With La Boniche, Ricardos and Cobblestones downtown we have enough to keep his going. And w/ Kearney Sq. becoming swinging —Blue Taleh on its way, Centro on Market Street finding its footing, this could be bigger than the Folk Fest, or at least Winterfest. Even Lowla Bear could use a roasted pork loin a la plumb neuvo w/ a side of pinot. No?
To make this a reality, post your support here and let's see if the Gourmet Gal can jump-start this ready-made slam dunk. Summer's the right time says restaurateur Dick Rourke, whose brainstorm this is. OK Dick, but not August, mid-June baby, mid-June.

A recent and awesome dining experience was at a "Hidden Treasure"; in Milford, NH called the Mile Away Restaurant, serving European and American cuisine. The building itself is quite old, and the decorating, unique. The food is some of the best ever. My sister and I ooh'd and aah'd our way through the most incredible Weinerschnitzel in all our years of eating. It was pounded so thin, that its sheer size had to be folded over to fit onto the plate. It was both crisp and tender at the same time, and was accompanied by fresh butternut squash, which was also sheer heaven. My husband was equally pleased with his Filet Mignon, which was tender, juicy and flavorful. Appetizers came in two columns: One list of six gives you a choice of those included with your meal. The second list of seven are those which come with a charge. All good - each and every one of them. By choosing from the many and varied entrees on the menu, you also receive a Caesar or Tossed Salad. Add to that, your choice of included desserts, and by meal's end, you'll already be anticipating your return. Website: www.mileawayrestaurant.com

Kathi E

Scott Plath is being tight-lipped about his plans to open a new restaurant in Chelmsford. All the owner of Cobblestones in Lowell will say is A. It’s in the former Ground Round spot on Route 110; B. It’s fun and conceptual and C. It probably will be called Moonstones. Not too much to sink our teeth into. “The food will be quality and the options beyond the scope of dining people are used to,” Plath said. Ummmmm. With restaurants harder to start than old Buicks, you’d think early PR would help grease the skids.
It's supposed to open Feb. 2008. They are spending some $$$ on design, so it will probably be the hippest thing Chelms. has seen (not hard). And perhaps the biggest. I haven't been inside that Ground Round, but it looks like a large building. Location is good, right off 495 and there is parking!! A huge plus. I went to East Coast Grill (new fav.rest) in Cambridge the other night and my car was almost locked in. They have a lot ($5) but it closes at 11. After one (okay 2 margaritas) you loose track of time. We got it out luckily because the attendant was still w/in shouting distance. But scary to return to a pad-locked parking lot. I digress. Scott since you are a GG commentor give us some more morsels to go on? Make your Moonstones' announcements here. Restaurateurs this is your forum!

Sangria's in Lowell has a new scene —owners, menu and decor — all new. This Central Street cantina quickly became a sketchy watering hole (w/ lousy service) after it opened four years ago. Now, a quick drive-by reveals happier times. New lights, higher ceiling makes it looks more pleasing, and a quick read of the menu shows great improvement. They are open for breakfast w/ burritos, omelets and French toast; Lunch =taco salads and black bean soup. And dinner boasts shrimp scampi and a burger bar. Word from manager Joseph Doyle is the sangrias are top-notch. But, alas I am just your intrepid blogger, here to report what's dishin' in the Mill City. I haven't dropped anchor here yet, have you?

When I told Gourmet Guy we were going to Taste of the Town this weekend he said "I've already had a taste of Lowell, I don't need anymore." Humbug. He is not a gallivanting gourmet, although he can cook! No, no, no. I told him this is not a gust of cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes or a flurry of parking tix, this is a food binge. All the culinary hotspots will be tossing gourmet bites under your nose. It's a secret who exactly will be there ( Infusions Bistro is a def.) but a food-tasting party is a fine party in my book. It's a tasty time to rub elbows w/ MV chefs/owners and everyone else in restaurant land. The 21 Annual Taste of The Town is Sunday at the DoubleTree Hotel, Lowell is a fete for the hardworking souls of the Low Gen. Hospital Auxiliary. It maybe too late to RSVP, tix are $60.But GG will have a full report on Monday, if Im not in a food coma.

The latest entry in the Eat Your Words contest:

Have you had a culinary experience lately?
I mean, a real experience?
An experience that allows you to possess a range of organic cuisine, an enriching holistic philosophy, and a certain Tao-like charm?
I had such an experience this afternoon, and boy, is my body feeling fine. Truly. Life Alive, an “Urban Oasis and Organic Café”, is just such a place. Located in downtown Lowell, in the midst of an art-abundant, cobble stoned neighborhood, Life Alive is the answer to anyone in search of a healthful, delicious, and hearty menu. Heidi Feinstein, Creator and Proprietor, began this small and thriving café a few years ago, and has achieved a marked success, with an offering unlike any in the area before. Along with the influx of young families and artists of all kinds, Lowell has welcomed this precious and scrumptious pearl with open arms. With my four-year old and six-month old in tow, I traipsed into Life Alive for lunch. The menu is quite breathtaking, and perhaps a little daunting for those not used to purely vegetarian fare. There is a huge nod to the vegan diet, but there are a couple of dishes that include cheese, and there is hard-boiled egg offered as a side. I absolutely adore “The Goddess,” their signature dish. This is a heavenly (no pun intended!) mixture of smoked tofu, brown rice, steamed carrots, beets, broccoli, and greens, with a wrap or not. The Ginger Nama Shoyu dressing is to die for. It’s somehow light and rich at once, and has just the right balance of spicy and sweet. I’ve literally dreamed about it. And yes, they do have a wrap for children, aptly called “The Child”, which consists of peanut butter and strawberry jelly wrapped in a whole grain tortilla. But I’d just like to note that my little boy loved “The Goddess” so much, he gobbled it up. The smoked tofu was such a hit, that he asked for some in a side dish. Speaking of sides, the menu cleverly offers side recommendations with each dish. These recommendations can range from squash, hard-boiled egg, and avocado, to raisins, garlic, and flax oil. One recommendation for “The Seeker,” a wrap that consists of Spring mesculin greens, garlic-lemon hummus, granny apple slices, cashews, cucumber, shredded carrots, sunflower sprouts and a dollop of Ginger Nama, suggests the patron try a side of Be Here Now by Ram Dass – indeed a fine side to sink your teeth into if you are seeking any kind of truth! The café also offers a multitude of homemade juices and smoothies, as well as teas, coffee, and a wheatgrass drink. Many of the juices boast fruits and veggies alike all in one glass, and pack a punch enough to keep you going for a week. To the smoothies, you may add “nutri-boosts” such as flax, whey protein, bee pollen, green tea powder, and more. Life Alive also sells organic products to include body care, perfumes, supplements, herbs, candles, incense, dry goods, as well as books and CDs. And Life Alive offers workshops in healthful cooking, safe cosmetics, and whole food nutrition, to name a few. Swing by this groovy slice of heaven, and you’ll see just what all the hub-bub is about!

Mary Duquette
mary@maryduquette.com

Heard on the street this a.m. that Lowell Restaurant Week's wheels are turning. The Godfather of gastronome Ricky Ricardo and MV PR force Deb Belanger are meeting w/ the Boston Convention and Visitor's Bureau to see about branding LRW w/ the formidable Boston Restaurant Week. Fellow foodies, this sounds promising. Of course Gourmet Gal will keep you posted w/ each new development. A good idea comes from Scott Plath of Cobblestones: include Burlington. This former mall-town-turned-gourmet ghetto is luring diners from Boston with hotspots like Capital Grille and L’Andana, Lowell chef Robert Jean's new Italian bistro. There's also the Lemon Tree, Flatbred Pizza, The Melting Pot and Cafe Escadrille. If Lowell can piggyback on the Burlington buzz and create a line of travel, then maybe the perception that this is the blackhole of dining will recede. If LRW is successful, it can only mean more options for those of us who enjoy a good nosh out.

Last night's Taste of the Town, featuring 15 restaurants/caterers from Lowell and beyond showcased what this blogger has always known: the MV is not a gormand wasteland. You know you've eaten well when you wake up feeling great the next day. The Sox world series sweep might have something to do w/ it, but I'll leave that to the sports blog. I was most impressed by Bella Italia’s chicken and pasta spread (see pix). This Tyngs. find has been serving up savory Marsala, pasta and, I can only imagine, other great Italian staples, for 12 years. Who knew? Lots of you apparently. Next time the craving for italiano, red wine and sauce hits, I know where I'm headed. It's in the shadow of Olive Garden and Carrabbas, which makes me want to visit the independent spot all the more. I enjoyed chatting w/ the Brew House staff who said their new chef Mike Cusanos, of Cusanos Italian Kitchen in Tewks., has taken over the kitchen. He's added pizza and, judging by last night's offering, some juicy prime rib. Infusion's Bistro in Chelms. was a notable no-show. Weird. I talked to owner Phil Proulx last week and he was gung-ho about the deconstructed clam chowder he was to feature. Maybe he got caught up in Sox fever. Mirabella Bakery in Tewks. rolled out the cupcakes, pumpkin no less, and Mambo Grill served tequila chocolate bread pudding! GG was too late to try the decadance, as the jovial crowd scarfed it down. The pork tenderloin and squash from Westford Grille won points for seasonality, my piece was a tad fatty, but Gourmet Guy gave his a forks up. Heard a new taco place is opening on Merrimack Street, across from Mambo Grill (which owner Frank Descoteaux was fretting about). She doesn’t have to worry, esp. if tequila pudding becomes a menu mainstay. Great new upstart Cafe Madrid has the nicest owners. They were making strawberry crepes alongside spicey paella, strange fusion, but both bites were so well-executed we refuse to be snarky. God I’m full.

The latest entry in the Eat Your Words conetest:

A long time ago, my husband and I won 'dinner for two' at the Rusty Scupper in Acton, MA.. We won the free meals for guessing the right answers on a radio show. The dinners were the most delicious we have ever eaten. We started off with potato skins with bacon and melted cheese followed by garden salads. We each chose an entree of filet mignon with vegetables and rice. Vanilla ice cream and regular coffee topped everything off. All the variety of foods tasted so fresh, perfectly cooked, and gave us both a warm feeling inside. It was a wonderful meal. My husband and I enjoyed feasting on this meal for over two hours that evening. Eating delicious foods seems to be our favorite thing to do! We guess we just savor every morsel!

Midge Landry

The latest entry in the Eat Your Words Contest:

To reward friends for their friendship and kindness through the years, I decided to invite them all to lunch. Chelmsford has not been known for its restaurants, but that has recently changed. One of those new dining opportunites exemplifies the French model of leisurely unrushed dining. I decided it was the perfect place for my occasion. They serve a memorable Seafood Alfredo for dinner, and I have returned more than once to savor the experience again and again. I could visualize my twelve invited guests enjoying that special dish. Unfortunately it was not on the luncheon menu. Chef Philip Proulx called me to say he would create the seafood Alfredo for our lunch group. Friends looked a little askance when informed I had chosen the main course for everyone. Their scepticism vanished as we chatted and dined on Deconstructed Clam Chowder or Caesar Salad with fresh Butter Brook Romaine Lettuce tossed with Parmesan Crisps and Herbed Buttered Croutons. The Seafood Alfredo was an overwhelming hit. The dessert platter a work of art. I can't remember a more wonderful experience than that lunch, surrounded by my friends and sharing the wonderful food at the Infusions Bistro right here in Chelmsford. Gloria Schoen has lived abroad and spent 12 years in Manhattan eating in some of the finest restaurants. "We now have some of the finest restaurants right here, and we should patronize them to insure we will be able to enjoy good food, at last, for a long time to come".

Gloria Schoen

Gastro pubs. They 're so bloody English. And so bloody good. We need more of these taverns dishing out bistro-quality meals. No crisps or dirty water dogs at The Garden At The Cellar. I popped into this low-key establishment, on Mass. Ave. just outside Harvard Square, last week and the place was slamming. Chef/ Owner Will Gilson, who grew up in Groton, took over the space a year ago, and has amassed a sturdy following. Lucky are the Harvard students w/ expense accounts. Local (is anyone tired of this trend yet?) is the focus and the prices ( all-natural chichen breast $17) are reasonable. What I love about gastro pub galavanting is sitting at the bar and sharing. We split chix croquettes and cod cakes, the latter was the superior of the two. Lots of fresh white fish perfectly quick fried, (or baked?) into mega munchkins. Light and crisp w/ warm fish inside. The sautéed spinach from a Deerfield Farm was probably the best sidedish I've met. Filled with garlic and cooked to a brilliant green- not over cooked! The squash salad w/ apple bacon and farm cheese was too deconstructed for my tastes. Call me a rigid purist, but a salad should be a salad, not a stacked snack. Still The Garden at The Cellar is always a good time. Gilson, a 25 year-old cutie, comes out and delivers the meal personally, retelling exactly how far your greens traveled to get there. I traveled 25 miles. How far would you go for a great meal?