Just returned from the opening of Tepthida Khmer, the new Cambodian restaurant on Chelmsford Street. My mouth is still tingling from the vivid flavors this cuisine imparts. We are talking lemongrass, garlic, lime leaves and coconut milk, all the tastes of the exotic land we hear so much about living in Lowell, but probably will never visit. Owner Ely Phlek Hsu of Lexington rolled out the red carpet treatment for gourmet gal, delivering square dish after square dish of kompot wrap, a Cambodian-style pot sticker, and locluc, cubed tenderloin beef on healthy salad (pic shown). We got a whirlwind tour of the kitchen, which was in overdrive for this packed opening. But we did catch a glimpse of energetic young chefs tossing rice and pad Thai around like it was pizza dough. We liked the spicy seafood salad served with lime and the shrimp rice dish tucked into a pineapple (who doesn't like that?) On the couch next to me was an ad man who was totally digging his chicken wings for their plentiful "meat on the bone." Decor is urban cool, a step up from most of the Asian restaurants in Lowell. Interior artist Stephen Suon lends a nice clean touch to this former furniture store. Concrete floors (which im having a love affair w/ now) keeps things cool and the giant exposed I-beam overhead meshes with the white/brown raised ceiling for a crisp/industrial look. As my accidental dining partner said consistency is everything w/ restaurants. Time will tell if Tepthida Khmer is up to snuff, but this blogger for one is rooting for them.
www.tepthida.com. 115 Chelmsford St., Lowell. A short walk from the commuter rail stop.
Is there such a thing as too much sushi? Probably not, like a good cup of coffee, you can always sneak a roll or two in. Even for breakfast sometimes. After the long sad season of nothing close to sashimi in the MV, sushi is popping up like parking tickets on Merrimack Street. Look for Etsogo to replace Mandarin Kitchen this fall, and Blue Taleh to open a block away at 15 Kearney Square around the same time. Both promise Japanese cuisine. While sushi is delicious and healthy, it’s not like a turkey sub. It should not be trifled with. Raw fish needs to be frozen at the right temp and handled by a studied sushi chef. Not that these places won’t do that, but sushi should not be treated like another cool app.