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August 2007 Archives

August 8, 2007

Khmer-i-tude

locluc.JPG Just returned from the opening of Tepthida Khmer, the new Cambodian restaurant on Chelmsford Street. My mouth is still tingling from the vivid flavors this cuisine imparts. We are talking lemongrass, garlic, lime leaves and coconut milk, all the tastes of the exotic land we hear so much about living in Lowell, but probably will never visit. Owner Ely Phlek Hsu of Lexington rolled out the red carpet treatment for gourmet gal, delivering square dish after square dish of kompot wrap, a Cambodian-style pot sticker, and locluc, cubed tenderloin beef on healthy salad (pic shown). We got a whirlwind tour of the kitchen, which was in overdrive for this packed opening. But we did catch a glimpse of energetic young chefs tossing rice and pad Thai around like it was pizza dough. We liked the spicy seafood salad served with lime and the shrimp rice dish tucked into a pineapple (who doesn't like that?) On the couch next to me was an ad man who was totally digging his chicken wings for their plentiful "meat on the bone." Decor is urban cool, a step up from most of the Asian restaurants in Lowell. Interior artist Stephen Suon lends a nice clean touch to this former furniture store. Concrete floors (which im having a love affair w/ now) keeps things cool and the giant exposed I-beam overhead meshes with the white/brown raised ceiling for a crisp/industrial look. As my accidental dining partner said consistency is everything w/ restaurants. Time will tell if Tepthida Khmer is up to snuff, but this blogger for one is rooting for them.
www.tepthida.com. 115 Chelmsford St., Lowell. A short walk from the commuter rail stop.


August 13, 2007

Northampton noshing

Weekend plan was to get out of the Merrimack Valley and get some air. What we found instead was great beer and muscles. Is there a better combination on earth? Oh and killer ( I need to come up with a better adjective) bread! Hot and crusty from the oven (Atkins who?). We found all this nirvana in Northampton, foodie capital of the Pioneer Valley. Just outside of Springfield (D’oh) lies this fun food town. The restaurant scene is trendy, diverse and filled with enough finds to keep a South Ender satisfied for a few days. We first hit the dirty truth, a beer museum on Main Street with too many taps to count, high ceilings and red walls. A sucker for design, I instantly fell for the cool look so marked by single hanging light bulbs and a giant mirror fastened with turnbuckles. I had a Dogfishhead summer ale, which tasted like lemonade. SInce it was midday, it was a perfecet choice. Gourmet guy had a hearty dark Belgian which provoked a giant smile. The fries here were great. Thin and crisp, cooked to an ideal temp and perfectly salted, but the food is not really the draw. I kept looking across the street at Spoleto with the big yellow awnings and I got strong food vibes. Later, after an eight mile ride on the nearby bike path left us peckish, we hit Spoleto. And it was a good call. The bread that arrived came from Iggy’s in Watertown and that was the first tip we were in good hands. The second tip, was the bartender who really seemed to appreciate food. He complimented us on our choices between churns at the lime machine, where he made fresh squeezed margaritas. Our spinach salads was so tender, I thought the little leaves where picked that day. With gouda and cherries on top and a tangy dressing, what could have been better? The muscles were in a nice tangy, spicy sauce and we had stuffed grilled squid (points for being different.) Check it out next time you hit Noho at 50 Main St. What's you favorite food town?

August 14, 2007

Groton’s food fest

Looking for a tasty summer bargain? The Stagecoach Inn in Groton is running a food and folk festival for the next three Fridays that’s built to suit those of us with sushi tastes and wasabi budgets (ie, journalists, pipe fitters, waitrons). To celebrate the arrival of their new chef Rich Tambling, the historic inn where Paul Revere and Grant (not Hugh, Ulysses S) stayed is offering New England boiled lobster, chicken, steak and a medley of summer and fruit salad for $30. Dessert by Party Favors is included. Package includes live music from local mellow fellow Chris McDermott (Aug. 17 from 7 to 10 p.m.) The following Friday is live jazz and then Mugawump takes over Aug. 31. I don't know what they sound like, but I hear they are good for digestion, The buffet also includes dessert. This beats Boston’s restaurant week, as the trips are unlimited, but the lobster is a one-off. 128 Main Street. Groton.GrotonStageCoachInn.com


August 17, 2007

Going Japanese

sushi.jpg Is there such a thing as too much sushi? Probably not, like a good cup of coffee, you can always sneak a roll or two in. Even for breakfast sometimes. After the long sad season of nothing close to sashimi in the MV, sushi is popping up like parking tickets on Merrimack Street. Look for Etsogo to replace Mandarin Kitchen this fall, and Blue Taleh to open a block away at 15 Kearney Square around the same time. Both promise Japanese cuisine. While sushi is delicious and healthy, it’s not like a turkey sub. It should not be trifled with. Raw fish needs to be frozen at the right temp and handled by a studied sushi chef. Not that these places won’t do that, but sushi should not be treated like another cool app.
Karma, which opened a few weeks ago in Westford is run by a guy who comes from Ruby Foo in Manhattan. This is a time-tested Japanese/Chinese fusion spot. I’m told the bluefin tuna belly melts in your mouth. Whilst I’m as happy as the next restaurant freak to see so much happening, we need a little diversity. How about an upscale Mexican joint?

August 20, 2007

Road food

On Saturday we ended up in Westport (MA) near Little Rhodie and found the best place for fish and chips, The Back Eddy. At times like these words are inadequate to describe taste. I wish I could extend a fork to ya'll so you could understand. It was cod, but like no cod I've ever come across. It was utterly fresh, must have been caught an hour before we ordered. The portion was of such capacity that we happily shared. The chips ( a key part of this dish) where hand-cut, which I've always dismissed as so what? But they were pefect frittes, the type the French boast about. Crispy and salty. We started with lobster brushetta, which could have been a misfire (why guss up a good thing?) but it was fresh, limey, tomato infused goodness. And we were perfectly situated on a harbor the whole time. Service was good, considering they where slammed w/ fellow day trippers. Must be the pitchers of beer you can buy the kitchen. The Back Eddy was pre-owned by Chris Schlesinger (The East Coast Grill) and its new owners have carried it on in a brilliant direction. Best way to go is down 88 East and take a right after the bridge before Horeseneck Beach. thebackeddy.com

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